Hi All
This file contains the shadows to make a Deck Mould
The single files are in PDF
The deck bevel is extimated to be about 15cm in real scale and 7.5mm for the model - It start from the bow and stop at the shroud.
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Cheers
Claudio
Wow Claudio …your amazing :graduate: thank you, looks like I’ll be busy next couple of days.
:zbeer: K1
Hi Alan
this is what could be the Shadow 3 with the bevel included
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In this shadow is asumed a base plane of 1.5mm thick like avio triplex - the lamination is made on top of the plane.
In order to have a shiny surface the plane could be made or covered with plastic film similar to the one used on painting frame as anti reflex glass (is not a glass is just a plastic film of 1mm )
General view of the Deck mockup :
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If you wish that you need some more time and confirm the bevel dimensions !
Cheers
Claudio
the Mounting Plan for the Deck and Cockpit
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Sorry for eventual errors,
Claudio
Claudio … all is clear, thank you again for all the effort you have put in on your P.C, I’m sure lot of people will benefit from the all details that will result in explosion of AC 120 builds, Matthias & company may start thinking about an International AC 120 competition … 
Cheers Alan
Hey K1…
Not much here mate, I was on management training for a week, too tired to work on 92.
This week I am rushing to repair my 27% scale biplane for an event this weekend and I will try and fit in some boat work…
Busy times…
Claudio is working overtime on this stuff aye?
Cheers
Goose
Claudio, I have a clarification question on sail plans.
So far we have posted two different 78 dm2 sail plans with same CE @ 34 mm, same Main/Jib ratio and the only difference being different mast lengths 1) 1,700 mm & 2) 1,600 mm.
Why do we have 100 mm difference ?
Cheers Alan
P.S Goose, good luck with your event this weekend mate
Hi Alan,
simply because the two Rigs will behave differently with various winds speeds, without the need to change the mast step position.
Starting from the point that 78dm² is a relative big surface for a model of 4.5kg, If you wish to have better chances with increasing wind speed, is then better to lower the point of pressure CE to reduce the tilting momentum. 10cm is rather important change.
Most depends on the areas and the dominants winds, this is the first parameter to analyse when is decided to build a model.
So, if in your areas the wind is blowing below, let say 5kn, then a tall mast and slim sails may operate vell, above 7-8kn is beter to reduce the height with wider sails surfaces. In other words if you decide a given surface, is up to you to decide the shape of the sail plan : high or wide ? To remember that the efficiency increase with a tall and slim sail like the wings of a soaring plane, the wind is faster as the distance from water level increases.
With stronger winds the sail surfaces are further reduced in the overall dimensions.
Cheers
Claudio
Whew !!! … (was little worried there for a while) however following your explaination now I feel much happier that I have ordered the right two sail suits then, I have the 78’s with with long mast (1700 mm mast) for light airs which are common in my area and the 74’s (1595 mm mast) for stronger winds, Claudio you are an amazing bank of knowledge, thank you !
Cheers :zbeer:
Hey K1…
Are you going to run two masts or just the long one with a gap between the top of the sail and the masthead when running the 74?
Cheers Re: Weekend event. Hours of redesign/rebuild for the weekend.
I will do some 92 this week, i promise!
Goose
Yesterday the first training between the defender of IACC 120 CUP , Alinghi SUI-100 and the Challenge of records, winner of IACC 120 Cup Challengers, ETNZ, with the new boat NZL-92. Sunny day, wind 5-9 knots, some gusts up to 16 knots.
NZL-92 showed a great speed sailing before the wind, in the wind range low/middle. Alinghi showed a little bit more speed sailing close to the wind. BUt you have to consider that NZL-92 is new, it needs for a period of development.
When the wind increased more than 8/9 knots Alinghi seemed have a better performance, but, of course, it is the defender, the better boat here in Roma.
I want to share two video, and some images:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNIbD2XjCLo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-EuAbrUMGs
Hiya Goose,
That’s one of the reasons for making two boats to test the sails in different wind conditions and when racing use which ever suit best suit conditions for the day. I will have two different mast lengths and just switch rig from one boat to the other, everything else on the boats is identical hopefully :rolleyes:
Matthias great pics, looks to be tough competition once Alessandro gets his ETNZ dialled in … will be close racing.
Cheers K1
See! see! I’m not being lazy…
Been rebuilding for a good few hours every night to make the event on Saturday
Goose
Hi All,
Today finished the deck mould, had problems finding 1.2 meter plastic sheet (perspex) so have to settle for 2 shorter pieces, cutting this stuff is a pain where the sun does not shine 
when cutting with electric jig-saw it glues itself back together behind the blade (heat welding) & when slow down the blade it splits the perspex, hence had few re-makes :mad:
Cut the foredeck bevel at 45 degree’s out of 10 mm balsa sheet then double-side taped clear plastic table cloth material over, then glued few sheets of balsa together and sand shaped the transom and plastic covered.
Next will glass the both decks tomorrow & let them cure.
Tomorrow is bulb making day, will raid the local fishing shop of all their lead sinkers, the plaster mould has cured rock hard and pure white … ready to go !!
Cheers K1
Great stuff K1, you have been busy mate…
How are you (we/Claudio) intending to join the deck to the hull?
I would imagine joining the edge of the hull to the edge of the deck to be problematic. Would we not want to add a short, vertical edge to the deck to slide inside the hull and create a little stability for joining?
Just a 2m idea.
Cheers
Goose
Hi Alan,
You are extremely fast ! whow!!!
2 remarks :
I was observing your picture and this particular bevel position is not very clear to me.
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As a negative moulding the bevel in my opinion should be inside the red line if this line is the deck line. In my view, but I could be wrong, the upper corner of the bevel shall fall on the vertical line of the deck line.
I observed that you mount a transom bloc and covered. In my opinion was not necessary since from the shadow 10 is just attached a sloped plate linking the floor and the hull bottom.
Do not forget to pass Wax on all surfaces !
I told was better to add a draw to show the deck shape with the bevel
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Cheers
Claudio
When cutting perspex, put a line of handyman(or anything you have) oil , on the cut line, stops it re-bonding. 
This also stops the blade from clogging up!
When cutting perspex, put a line of handyman(or anything you have) oil , on the cut line, stops it re-bonding.
Claudio your observation is right !!! I have the bevel line 4 mm inside the hull line which is the wrong place thanks for that I shall move it further in-board.
I made the transom block only as I feel the transom with shadow 10 angled to the hull leaves the remaining stern walls very thin @ 0.50 mm, hence running another 0.50 mm inside the hull will give it little more strength, its only small area and no significant weight gain.
Islander … now there’s a good tip for cutting perspex I wish I knew 24 hrs ago, good one !
Goose, can imagine the best solution is to glue 3 x 5mm pine wood strip along the top of the hull (horizontally) for the deck to rest on to be, same as AC 33 build, unless Claudio or some-one else has better idea ?
Cheers K1