K1w1, are you making 2 hulls at the same time ? Wow great work man … just wanna ask whether did u use scroll saw for all the shadows ? I was thinking of investing one
Hey K1…
You’ve been busy!
Good stuff mate, watching your progress makes it a lot easier for me 
Cheers
Goose
PS: Lama… do it! Nothing gets more run time than my scroll saw, but then I am always building something!
K1W1,
From the last photo - the hull in the cradle - you look as though you are intending to put 3 “full” bulkheads in place.
I would not recommend this, as they tend to show on the outside of the hull (if not immediately, then later).
My recommendation would be to reduce to bulkhead so it makes minimal contact with the hull skin - see attached photos (sorry about quality, but a rush photo shoot here late at night in the dark - camera had nothing visible to focus on!)
Photo shows keel and mast tubes joined together with "bulkheads on both sides (probably a bit more than you need - this is for 10+ kg of lead).
Other than keel and rudder “tubes” nothing else touches the hull skin.
Jon
10Kg of lead!
How big is this boat?
Got a link to pics?
Cheers
Goose
Gidday
Lamafever, look back at post # 216 that was when I decided I needed two boats, I have no idea what a scroll saw is buddy, electrical equipment in my workshop consists of four items 1. Drill 2. Dremel (Chinese copy) 3. B&D hand saw which have cheap pattern making device mounted too and 4. Air Compressor, that’s it.
Goose, having holidays is an advantage (or is that a disadvantage) at this time, but I’m taking my time methodically going through this project.
Jon, maybe I did not clarify myself very well sorry, there are no bulk heads what you saw in the pic is just inside section of the frame when I cutout the cradle frames, only will be used for hand alignment during construction.
Being “monocoque” construction the hull support will come from the deck & Keel box/mast support plus one strips of 3 x 5 mm running each side of the hull from bow to stern along the gunnels. It will be the same as your boat construction, without the two bulkheads which you have.
Cheers K1
K1w1, your tools are much better than mine 
I’ve got only a dremel and drill. I was cutting 6mm ply with my jib board hand cutter 
and i think i’ve invested a lot of muscle power previously which i don’t intend to do for the Brad Gibson Reggae and ETNZ i’m going to build.
Hey guys…
This is a scroll saw and they are awesome.
K1: If you hate sanding, you’re gonna hate the wet sand part :lol:
Man my arm is sore… it hasn’t had a workout like that since I was single!
Pic 1: 3 mins to spray it on, 2 hours to sand it off… hull is still a little wet.
Pic 2: Started the rudder and the core as you can see came out at 25g
Stopping to get some carbon rod tomorrow and will bag it over the weekend.
Cheers
Goose
Goose your going well 
Lamafever hand cutting 6 mm ply with jib board cutter, reckon one of scroll saw thingys is the way to go buddy.
Claudio, I’m in the process of ordering the masts etc. and have few questions:
-
I will be using groovy mast for main sail luff slides, What type of mast CF or alloy would you recommend and at what stiffness ?
-
How long should the head crane be for 78 & 74 dm2 main ?
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What is the position of the Jib pivot point on the foredeck ? I would like to fix the pivot point and adjust the jib boom fore & aft when nessacary.
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Do you have any info on how to setup a self adjusting cunningham ?
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We need to make the main boom, any recommendations on construction ?
Cheers K1
Hi,
- Groowy is perfect and alloy or carbon depend on the weight you have allocated for the Rig. I think you need some more weight data on your construction before deciding.
- Generally you make a complete rig for each sail surface therefore the crane is adapted to.
- You may need a slide in order to have several positions as for the mast. The two sail are moved of the same amount. The jib boom has a pivot anchoring point at 25% of the lenght.
- No, but on the IOM site of Lester Gilbert you may find some infos. http://www.onemetre.net/Build/Build.htm
- Balsa /CF sandwich a section of 5/6mm x 15/18 mm is an average dimension
Cheers
Claudio
G’day Goose - sorry to interrupt the thread but; I’m trying to follow all your steps for hull making and Pic 1. has me confused 
. Have you spray painted the hull and then spent 2 hours wet sanding the paint off??? Dumb question but why? Does the leftover paint act as a filler or did you spray on black filler?
Thanx.
Larry L.
I think that is to determine the low spot area which will be going to be filled up
K1w1, may i know where are u guys gonna get carbon groovy mast ? i would love to see this section on making IACC mast and sail … are going to have designs on the sail as well ? My hand is so itchy to start but i have started on my build, Brad Gibson’s Reggae IOM, so i’ll let u guys finish up with all the photos as my references … and please post the mast supplier links ya
Hi Lamafever, for all my fitting I use CAP Maquettes where ever possible, its a French company link is http://www.cap-maquettes.com/shopcap7_1024/index1.html looking at their site they don’t appear to have CF masts, I need to ask. Hoping I don’t need CF mast as can imagine they would be a pretty penny
For my sails (78 & 74 dm2) I use a Kiwi sail maker (who else) Isobar sails, he sails & makes RC yachts as well http://www.isobaryachts.com/etnz.htm and makes nice gear, check out his new TP 60 kit.
Planning to use full graphics including sails, need to find some-one here in Germany that can do it for me.
Cheers K1
Hi all…
Larry: You’re not interupting my friend… Lama got it right, the paint is what Claudio calls tracer and it does show the low spots as well as filling the very fine pores left in some areas.
I didn’t do much yesterday, the weather was perfect for flying but will update you later.
Cheers
Goose
Hi All, Goose in your Batman suit again buddy
Finished sanding one hull :headache: decided at the height of my boredom to take a break from sanding and make cast for the bulbs, my company has a foundry and having some made there, but won’t be for another 4 weeks until I can get them. Nothing to lose if home made one don’t work out.
Glued 4 blocks of 10 mm balsa together then whittled it into shape with modelling knife, knowing how difficult it is working with lead, wanted to avoid too much drilling later. Have made allowance for moving the bulb fore & aft to find right position and the bottom of the fin going 10 mm into the bulb before bolt goes through the bulb.
Then made a fin template out few strips of alloy which insets into the balsa bulb bolted the balsa bulb into the casting box (10 mm clearance to bottom of the box) & poured 1 kilo of moulding plaster, set in 30 minutes, popped it out and flipped it over for the bottom half in the other side of the casting box. Both casts are nice and smooth with only very small air bubbles in few places.
Plaster requires 48 hrs to dry out before can pour the lead, as extra precaution I will put casts into the oven for couple of hours before pouring the lead. Once done, hopefully with minimum of grinding will then epoxy the 2 half’s together.
Now start sanding the 2nd hull :indiffere
Cheers K1
K1W1,
You can purchase cf masts from this shop in Italy:
K1, ATTENTION !!!
I discourage you very strongly to pur lead into the relatively fresh plaster.
Plaster requires several weeks before drying and become usable for lead puring. Heating up in a oven is not sufficient in my opinion.
Be extremely carefull, if not dry, the plaster may explode ejecting fuse lead and cause bad injuries
Cheers
Claudio
thanks for the CF site sailaround.
Claudio, understand what your saying thank you, I will leave it for a while then. Cheers :zbeer:
K1
In the other discussion (AC33) was treated a safe method to make bulbs :
http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/showthread.php?t=4991&page=20
Cheers
Claudio
Hi all…
Bit of a slow weekend for NZL-92 this week, however I did spend lots of relaxing time wet sanding my rudder on the front steps as the world went by…
Pic 1: This is my rudder with 2 layers of 3.8oz S glass and a layer of wax paper inside a plastic bag that has been vacuumed with a food sealer :nuts:
It doesn’t suck as much as I would like (here come the jokes) but did an ok job. I put the whole thing between foam pads with weights and it came out with one side sweet, the other needing work because of the pattern in the bag.
Pic 2: One hard fill and several coats of primer wet sanded off left me with a rudder I am very pleased with.
On with the keel next.
K1 - Be careful mate… being sprayed with molten lead doesn’t sound like much fun.
Lama - The groovy mast is sweet but your mainsail will need a bolt rope of some type. The experts here have suggested a 12mm OD carbon tube, which is both lighter and cheaper.
Cheers
Goose
Hi All,
Had one of those days today you know, get up and start the day shaving with toothpaste & brushing teeth with shaving cream nothing goes right type day :irked:
Finally finished sanding the hulls but run out of final primer, then starting thinking about making keel boxes & tried few options.
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Make FBG keel boxes, me thinks light, strong and should be easy to make so go ahead and wrap 2 layers of cling wrap (acts as release & provides minimal gap for fin in the box) around fin head and wet on 3 layers of 150 gsm cloth & put it it the press to let it cure.
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Make Ply keel boxes, take 3 mm ply coat with epoxy & let cure, then cut to snugly fit fin head & tack with epoxy …
Well epoxy leak through gap in cling film so I could not get the FBG box off ! ending up cutting it off - Failure # 1
Hit the scales with the Ply box and weighed in at 46 grams (too heavy Failure # 2) compared to the FBG which weighs 26 grams (good but need to find better way of making it) with that decided to go and listen to some whale sounds & let this day pass by in peace.
Cheers K1
P.S Goose, there are more ways than one to attach the luff to a mast, attached graphic taken from AMYA magazine cira 2003. I use the last one bead & tube method.