Esterel65

I got it closed. Feels very stiff! Now I’m working on rudder and fin…

Take a look here if you want… http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2098471&page=3

Wonderful looking boat, will have to build one myself I think.

Finished!!! First sail last saturday. Full report here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2098471&page=5#post28209350

I am so happy! Lots of thing to improve now.

tarm,

we had another local sail on sunday and I was very happy with the way the esterel performed in heavier air with a conventional rig… it wold really get up on a step nice and really scoot and when it noses down it really tends to shed the water nicely and not go bow down…I think if it had a peaked foredeck it would be real great in waves…I hit cladios design numbers.

what kind of servo’s. you could probably shave some weight buy going digital and lipo/life batteries.

If I had an option. I’d move thebattery aft to trim the bow up that way once it get under power it would come closer to hitting the lines.

We have a full blown regatta this saturday so I’ll get more time on the water with more boats…

I feel that this boat will not be the best in light air, too much wet surface. I have a second lighter shorter keel, but I have not ever used it on the boat. only a trial fit.

Get the leak squared away. it might en up needing another couple coats of clear on the outside to fill any pinholes, spray, sand repeat… the other option would be to mix up some epoxy and thin it out and pour it inside the hull and swish it around and get a good coat inside the hull. and then pour out whats left over. will probably add more weight than external clear coats though…

a good leak test. is to fill up the INSIDE of the hull and see where the water is seeping out…

Thought i would try one in balsa, the reverse bow took some doing but it is getting there. Yes I know the rudder sucks, it will be changed.

I don’t see anything wrong with the rudder…

I will post a full regatta report later on. but at our cinco de mayo regatta today.

I won the event with my esterel in moderate 3-5 with puffs to 10…

Well done, Marc.

RE: Knoby’s boat - looks like some RG65 rule updates are needed to account for reverse bow bumpers?

Dick, I would think if the bumper went the full length of the reverse bow IE all the way to the sheer line and maintained the approved thickness the full length, there should be no issue, which is what I did…

I’m not sure these boats really need bumpers, not like that carry that much force, but Rules are Rules…

I wasn’t too sure what to do about the bow bumper. To be honest, whilst the drawing shows the bumper on the small vertical part of the bow, & that would seem to satisfy the rule, I didn’t feel happy it was within the spirit of the rule or fair to other yachts in the class. I think I will copy Marc’s idea & run the bumper the whole length of the bow.
I agree, some clarification or update of the rule is need for reverse bow boats.

Well done Marc with your win.

Glenn

Had it’s first sail today. Really impressed & a big thank you to Claudio for sharing this brilliant design for free. Sailed ‘hands off’ from the moment it hit the water & I love the way the water seems to flow off the bow. Just for fun I will make a couple of different rudders, including a winged one, to see what difference it makes & add a bow bumper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sP63hcBhQE&feature=youtu.be

I forgot to share my own first-sail-video: https://vimeo.com/93076742 Very little wind that day, but anyway!

Will take a detailed look at knoby’s one, too!

Really enjoyed your build Tarmstro, it inspired me to build mine. I just have to learn how to do moulding now.
Yours looks good on the water.

Nice to hear that!

Moulding is not necessary. I mean, you do not need to build a mould, just a plug. Take a look at how I build mine: fiberglass over plug without any gel-coat or paint at all. Went for this because its easier/less work, result was astonishing! My buildlog (sure you already seen it): http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2098471

Normal fiberglass builders do a plug, then a 2-piece mould over the plug, then build the hull inside the mould. Way too much work for me!

Regards,
Thomas Armstrong

i did mine with a male plug as well… yeah the NDC type boats would need two halves of the mold since you’d not be able to get the hull out of the mold with out it being able to come apart…

The mould is not necessary !!

  • The most economic “one shot” way is to shape the hull and deck from a foam bloc. Method often explained already in this forum.

  • Cover the foam with packing tape.

  • Laminate glass fiber and epoxy 3x 80g/m² max or 100g/m² + 80g/m².

  • Let rest for a week for full polimerisation.

  • Cut a deck window where access is needed for servos and battery.

  • Remove/extract piece by piece by breaking the foam with a skalpel or any appropriate tool. Foam do not adhere since covered with packing tape.

  • A second access from the transom as well from the bow.

The most critical part is the integration of shadow/supports for fin box and mast support. If needed additional deck cutting can be considered to facilitate internal support mounting.

Of course the plug is not available anymore !!!

ClaudioD

Hull number 3 out of the plug…

1 oz glass, 1.7 ounce kevlar and .25 ouce angel hair on top…

untrimmed 125grams a bit “heavy” probably did not need the 1ounce glass on the inside…

might have to pop a second kevlar hull with just kevlar/angelhair just to see

Hi,
Claudio ist right, no need for “exotic” materials like kevlar. 3 layer of 70g/m² glass are stiff enough for a hard chine hull. For a round hull you can go even further down (e.g. 2 layers 70g or 2 layers 50g and one 70g). The only task of the hull ist to keep the water out, but somewhen the thin laminates become too “floppy”. Using Carbon makes the hull more stiff but it costs weight (same fabric weight - but more resin). Both Carbon and Kevlar are only gimmics for optical reasons in a RG65.
A weight well below 100g (with deck) should be no problem. 125-150g is a weight for a good, ready to sail hull

Did I need to use kevlar…no… Did I need to use Carbon on the previous one… Nope

Yes it is gimicky but… from a price point kevlar is cheaper than carbon. and really not much more expensive than glass… Should not have any of the radio issue that carbon has…

Plus its pretty cool looking…

I find it nice to try working with other materials so I can learn…the more I learn I better I get…

After several glass and carbon hulls the process is not as intimidating as one would think.

I may try to pop out another hull or two. about an hour to lay it up and 8+ hours to let it cure

You could do an RG hull with two layers of 1 ounce per square yard with the angel hair as a finish which would still be lighter than your 50 50 70 and still be stiff enough…

The more layers, it is a bit more difficult to get it to smooth out with introducing any wrinkles.

that why I’m thinking one layer of 1.7ounce kevlar with the angel hair on top for a smooth finish. Ie gives me a sacrificial layer for sanding/finishing without hitting the kevlar…

Hello, Joachim:

I agree with you, the hull is there just to prevent the thing from sinking, plus to help the water move from bow to sternas easy as possible. Also, we do not need any structure at all, specially if using a swing-rig, as it does not need stays or shrouds!

My Esterel hull came out to be 80gr after closing it (empty hull), and 110gr including all reinforcements for mast, keel, servos, rudder. Pretty neat! I used just 2 layers of 68gr/sqm (=2oz/sqyd) fiberglass, and red-tinted epoxy to give some color. I did not use any gel-coat or paint, as I did not want to add weight! Detailed build log here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2098471

If you are concerned about looks, you canuse carbon or kevlar like Marc did…

@Marc:
Angel hair - it something like 25g/m²
Terrible stuff to work with … I try to avoid it …

Yes, it would be sufficient but it is dangerous to touch the hull :wink: - especially when you have a hard chine hull with more or less plane surfaces. And I do not want to sail a race with it in a breeze …

@tarmstro: 110g is a good result