[b]Hi Claudio,

Well, as mentioned I like the Esterel 65 hull shape and design. Couldn’t resist and started to frame one up.
I’m a sucker for building new hull designs…:rolleyes:


I’m very pleased to hear about. Wish you a good contruction. Let us knows about the progress !

Hey Sven,

Any chance of getting you to trace the 5 panels

I think it would be neat to try to to make a boat with out frames using tape to hold the panels together and then glue em up. that wya you don’t have any frames inside. like a modified stich and glue…

Hi Sven -

I’ve had this one of mine “on ice” for about 4 years now. It is stringer/frame construction like yours, and covered in 1/20" thick wood veneer. I got to the mast and couldn’t decide whether to go with a swing rig - or standard mast configuration, so construction stopped. I just pulled out and dusted off the unfinished boat, and I will install a tube forward for swing rig, and location aft for a pin-base standard mast so I can use either one. Only change is that the framing (shown in one photo) for the foredeck was scrapped as it didn’t “look nice”.

I always liked the way my original JIF designs sailed, and Claudio was wonderful and sent me templates for a similar built Marblehead which (somewhat) follows his Esterel “M” Class design. Have the templates mounted and partially cut out. Will post construction over on the M Class thread.


Think you would need the frame work, I have done some stitch and glue type hulls in the past. Don’t think this hull type would work well. It didn’t take me long to cut out the frames and assemble with the stringers, 5 minute epoxy or CA glue does a quick job of it. Balsa is real easy to work with.

I like the Jif design as well. Something about those hard chine hulls…multi-chine look really nice.
I always wanted to build a multi-chine kayak, by Pygmy Boats… or cedar strip version just never got around to it and did not have a workshop big enough since moving from Georgia. Your sailboat looks sharp!!

Heres an update

Had some time over the past week to work on the Esterel. Just pulled it off the building board and sanded the topside down.
Looks pretty nice at this point.

I likey…definitely gonna be a build for me this winter…

My Marblehead should look fairly similar. Will watch to see how well it sails. Nice looking so far !

Hi Claudio,

I’d be pleased to see your version of this concept drawn to fit the I.O.M. rule. I’m sure I put on this site some time ago a similar style of plan I’d been playing around with.


have been busy…

working on the rg along side the iom version of the esterel…

my plan to to cut veneer for the hull with a layer of glass on either side. .5 ounce oun the outside for both. 5 ounce on the inside for the iom and 1ounce for the rg…

now ijust need to figure out the panel shapes. I’m going to try to do it in cad…but not sure I have the skills. th eother option is to just get out the paper and start tracing.

currently I have it covered with heatshrink…

I haven’t ventured too much further in my hull build, several other projects needed to get done first.
But did make a rudder, keel and keel trunk, hope to get moving on it within the next few days…

figured out an “easy” way to make patterns for the veneer. used blue painters tape and each chine got its own pattern.

worked ok. I was hoping to do the layup of glass and veneer all at once to get a nice “sandwich”. not sure that is going to work. my cut panels are not a perfect fit…so I will have some minor gaps to fill…

I think I am going to end up laying out the inside layer of glass, then let it set for about an hour or so and let it get tacky and then place the veneer panels and leave it overnight and rub in some sawdust into any visible gaps. the following morning I can then do minor trimming and filling of any gaps that I missed between the panels before I layup the final outer layer.

I’ll just use my rudders and keels from previous rg’s…

well the veneer did not adhere real well and scalloped up. so its a no go. I think th eonly way to get it work with this veneer would be to make panels and then lay them up with glass as flat panels and then “stitch” them together…

here are pics of the iom

Marc - I didn’t have any issues doing the flat veneer panels on my RG65. They were tacked in place using CA glue - with a bit of overhang on two of the four sides. Once in place, I “smeared” a bit of thick epoxy along the stringer/panel, using a piece of tongue depressor shaped to form a nice, small fillet. Once that cured, I was able to trim the panel back to the stringers and bulkheads (or transom) and finally coated the interior and exterior with two coats of epoxy. I was looking for more detailed photos - but they are somewhere on a 1 TB hard drive that I have been slowly working to clean up photos and combine into folders - so am using the ones I was able to find easily. Note - the veneer is pure wood ---- no paper or glue backing!


this veneer is paper thin, maybe as thick a business card. I was hoping to not have any frames inside. hence the desire to back up the veneer with glass

I need to figure out a way to glue the veneer down so I can glass it but still have it removable from the frames I thought about using the heat shrink around the frames, but I’m not sure the ca will stick or wick through the tape. another thought is blue painters tape…just not sure what best. as I don’t want to waste the veneer…

As I recall - my veneer is 1/20" thick - and probably close to yours. I know I had to keep it between sheets of glass until ready to attach to keep from getting “wrinkles” in the stuff. I still have some Bird’s Eye maple I wanted to use for deck.

If yours was glue backed, you could try to “tack” in place with a heating iron. You can always scribe panel shape on paper or light card stock if you can get into the inside of hull. Just tape some light poster board (not foam core) in place, and using a long pencil stick through from opposite side. Scribe the panel shape and remove the card stock. Add a bit for overlap on your stringers, and then cut your veneer (a bit bigger than actual size). Coat with epoxy and lightweight - 1/2 oz glass on one side for now and place between glass that has been waxed. Once cured, you should have a piece of panel that you can then trim to size. Again, tack in place to your stringers and sand down to final size. After glue-up, you can apply glass to inside.

Obviously you need to make all panels before glue-up since you need access from opposite side of hull. Once all panels are done, use the shadow templates and sew the panels together. I would use some Kevlar (carpet) thread and simply bury under epoxy coating at the seams. You won’t be able to sand the Kevlar easily. A needle should be able to punch right through the veneer. Once stitched, turn over and add thick epoxy to stringer seams. Then remove the temporary shadow templates that kept the hull shape, and touch up where seams weren’t coated with the epoxy seam covering.

Because I can’t physically be there to see what you’ve got, the above is how I would build using panels - but you still need shadow templates to hold shape of hull until it is all done. If the above doesn’t work for you, maybe you can modify the construction using ideas I’ve provided. Good Luck, Dick

i was hoping to keep the hull mounted to the building board… makes it easier to do some work…so getting inside the hull is a bit difficultfor tracing… no glue backing…

I was pretty successful using the blue painters tape to make panels for the purposes of making the wood panels.

the other sticky wicket is claudios narrow deck. getting the iom off the frame was easy. a bit more flex over the longer hull.

i have been very successful in making glass panels by using cling wrap on the bench taped down and then lay up the glass, and the lay up another layer of cling wrap. then a a piece of foam with wood clamped on top to exert equal pressure over the fiberglass…

The way i did it (i did not use veneer but but paper stripes a la cold molding and is the esterel footy) is to build a male mold, I used 1/4 balsa, I covered it with packing tape, glued the paper (evener) on the mold with tidebond (3), and covered it afterwards with epoxy and GF (3/4 oz.) using the latex method. The tidebond was quite “easy” to convince to release the mold and it came out pretty good.