Dick - Plans

Hay Dick, as I am nearing the completion of my hull for my USOM (I also found you on the USOM yahoo list! just haven’t said hi there yet) I was wondering if you have plans aviable online that I can take look at and perhaps start building something.


Drake are you referring to Dick Lemke?

heh yea sorry for a bit confussing here:P lemme change the topic :stuck_out_tongue:

Yo - Drake:

[b][COLOR=Red]WATER RESIST is a trimaran design by Jean Margail of France. It is of the newer “surface piercing” type of design.

The line drawings are available directly from Jean, by request via email. Email Jean at his site and by reply mail he will send you the file plan for the Mini40 trimaran.
(he also has a 2 meter sized catamaran available as well)

His French web site is located at: http://water.resist.free.fr/

If needed, click on the British flag for english translation of the site. Go to the Plans/Build section of the site.

NOTE: the drawings consist of line drawings. They do not include a constrution manual or instructions. A CAD viewer is required to see and print these drawings, and they require a plotter or wide format printer for output. Sheet size is approximately 3 feet x 5 feet. Multiple sheets are requuuired for main hull, floats, cross beams and sail plan.[/COLOR] [/b]

[b][COLOR=DarkOrchid]GHOST TRAIN is a trimaran designed by Andy McCulloch of Britain.

Through the courtesy of Alan Hayes in New Zealand, and Andy, these line drawings are made available at no charge. The line plans and the sail plans can be downloaded from these two links.

Lines: http://radioyachting.com/Files/gtrain.dwg

Sail Plan: http://radioyachting.com/Files/gt-sailp.dwg

NOTE: these are line drawings only. They DO NOT include instructions for building or rigging. The plans are approximately 3 feet x 5 feet in size and require a CAD viewer to read/print and a wide format printer or plotter to output to paper![/COLOR][/b]

If these are a bit tuff for a first time build, I highly recommend buying a set of SNAPDRAGON plans from Traplet publications. Designed for first time builder, the boat has a good track record, and many have been built. I just received a personal OK to buy a set of plans and make them available for others to use - no royalties - from the designer Mike Howell in the UK. With holidays, I just haven’t had the time. Besides, I have more plans than I know what to build first.

Actually I am building [b]WATER RESIST.

[/b]I think the plans for SNAPDRAGON are priced at about $13 - $15 (US) or so. Just do a search on TRAPLET PUBLICATIONS and you can order on line. Remember - if $15 sounds like too much, keep in mind the value of the boat, when done should be around $1200 at minimum with radio gear installed and one sail set. Plans are less that 1% of the value of the finished boat.

Good luck - keep us posted on the build.

EDIT: Added the following:
Order no.: MAR2394
Our price: $ 10.00

A Mini40 class racing trimaran design, 1.2m length and beam, intended for home building in balsa planking, or cut from blue foam and covered in glass cloth. Plan shows all frames for both central hull and floats, rigs and daggerboards and rudder profiles. Designed by Mike Howell.


Awsome! thanks for the link, blue foam and fiberglass are my friend both fairly simple setup to work with. now you start talking about rigging… I have no clue on that aspect of things can’t imagine that it will be that hard.

thanks for the info!


When you get ready for the rig - I strongly urge you to discuss with Ian Sammis. He has some deal worked out with Bob Sterne as I recall for rig and sails. Might be spendy, but will save you headache and time than trying to locate, fabricate your mast and booms, vang, gooseneck, etc. Also sails are professionally made. You can make your own radio too - from parts - but there are some things that just make sense to purchase. Once you have a mast, booms and sails you can always build your own highwind smaller sails yourself. At least you will have something of quality to compare your home made version to.

thats sounds like a good deal. When i get start I’ll let you know which one I pick and start going after it… i am sure i will get to a point where I will have a question or three!

again thanks for the help,

Hit !

Where are you with your boat ?
Want to see pics please

I don’t have any pics, as I haven’t started on my prjoect yet (unforeseen bills came up), perhaps Dick Lemke will post some of his work

This is a photo of the foam shaped hulls for WATER RESIST plans.

I was in process of determining the location of cross beams for mounting, and mast height needed in order to use some “M” Class sails that I was provided by an r/c sailing friend. Ceiling height is standard 8 feet, and I decided to remove about 10 inches of mast base to bring mainsail foot down closer to deck.

:idea_125: The mast, by the way, is a two piece unit, comprised of cross-country ski poles that were destined for disposal because they were broken at the thin tips where “baskets” attach. Don’t overlook some possible “free” sources of supply as you scratch build. I will be using a single diamond wire and spreader system - just to insure mast stiffness and handle any mast bend that might happen under load.

In response to above photo of the multihull - I received several emails asking about “how” I made the wooden gull-wing shaped cross beams.

I started with a drawing of the shape and cut out a piece of OSB board as a shaped template. That was nailed to a larger piece for stability and as a work surface. The top template was the desired shape with a bit smaller width because if some expected “spring-back” when beam was released from template clamps. A piece of plastic film was laid down to prevent beams from sticking to base surface. Small pieces of scrap wood were nailed on top of the template form to allow clamps to hold.

The arms were made from thin strips of western red cedar cut about 1/8 - 3/16 inch thick and oversize in length. 9 of these strips were glued up and placed on edge. During glue-up, they were stressed to fit the template. A small amount of hot water was needed to prevent splitting when bending. WEST System epoxy was used for glue/lay up. The clamps are what I use for kayak strip building and a great idea to whom I cannot recall - they are simply PVC pipe “slices” cut anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inches wide, and then cut through to allow them to be expanded to form a clamp. The wider the slice of pipe, the more holding/compressive strength. The thin ones have hardly any pressure at all. Clamps stayed on until epoxy cured. Epoxy doesn’t stick to PVC - another positive. Removed the beams and routed a narrow, shallow groove on the bottom surface of the cross beams. Laid tows of carbon in epoxy into this groove and then added one more “slice” of wood as a cover. Reclamped until cured. Wood beam now has a core of carbon inside, but unseen.

Photos explain a bit more.