Just about got two ready to sink. Gotta say this has been fun and a little more challenging thatn I thought it was gonna be. I’ve come into a little snag on what to use for my through deck fairlead. Found one commercial source (rcyachts) but it appears to be designed for much larger models. Seems like overkill. Seen plenty of pics but can’t seem to decifer what’s being used. I done a lot of improvising, with mixed results, and hope somebody can point me in a direction that will work! On that note thinking about using some spectra (think it’s 30lb, maybe 50lb) for my lines. Sound right? Thanks for any pointers!!!
Try glass beads, available at any sewing store. They cost pennies. You can glue them into a hole in the deck. But make sure they have a smooth hole with a smooth curvature on both sides, so the line slides easily. Also put it near the stern, so water can’t come in the hole (the stern part of the deck stays quite dry).
With regard to line for the mainsheet, spectra may be a little stiff for the tiny forces involved, and may give trouble in light winds. You are better off with a more flexible line, like 20 lb fly rod backing (braided dacron) or plain old string. There is very little force on it, so flexibility is more important than strength.
I’ve had good luck with brass fittings for water and gas line connections. They run from about 5/8 to 1-1/4 inches long, are brass, have an OD from 1/4 up to 3/8 and have one flared end. I buy mine from home centers or hardware stores, and they come 2 per pack. Also includes a Delin compression sleeve.
I drill a hole in the deck at exit point, insert the brass tube with flared end up, and allow the tube to stick up as high as possible. Then run a bead of epoxy all the way around where tube and deck meet. The height of the tube above the deck prevents a lot of water from entry into the hull, however water running along the main-sheet will still enter. My cost was $1.19 (US).
Another thing to worry about - the sheet will be lying loose under the deck when you let it out in a light wind, before the sail pulls it out. It can get tangled around the other under-deck components, unless you create a barrier. A thin piece of plastic, or sail cloth, can be used to limit its wanderings.
yea i found even the finest of fishing line or kevlar thread ect was still to stif and when it is coiled under the deck the sail wont pull it out to easy i ened up puting barings on the mast which helped alot as it made the mast spin a lot smoother. for the deck i just used the lil brass thing you get with servos and put two together with a bit of heatshring inbetween the two sides f the deck
Power Pro, 100% spectra, 20 Lbs. / 6 Lbs Dia. fishing line.
Light, strong, and plenty limp. Even the stiffest lines loosen after a few casts, err, I mean sails. Tie a good knot, lock it in place with a tiny dab of CA. Then put a dab of thick silicone diff lube (r/c car stuff) between yer finger / thumb, rub the two fingers together so it films nicely, and lube the line at all friction points. A little goes a long way.
Get it cheap at Walmart. Don’t know if there is one where you are though.
I use fairleads similar to UkSail, either the little brass servo mount thingy’s or half sail grommets but spotted with ca into both ends of a carbon tube about 15mm long so when glued in with epoxy they stand up 9 - 10mm above the deck. 20lb spectra braid fishing leader sounds good, but it’s slippery so probably needs the CA drop to lock the knots. Thanks Nigel, I’ll try some on my next rig/s. Too many projects as usual, I’ve one boat to rerig (Harpy) one to complete (my diagonal) and one to start building (Bob 2)
I use the ink reservoir tube from a dead ball point pen (Bic) with the ink removed with a tiny scrap of paper towel, soaked in lacquer thinner, pushed down by a wire. The plastic is very low friction, (It has to be. Ink wont stick to it!), and it is about the right diameter. I use about 2 cm length,sticking above the deck by about 1.5 cm.
It’s never failed me yet.