Hi All - who may have an interest. The Marblehead demolition, and reconstruction proceeds. After a considerable amount of searching, plus a bunch of knowledgeable skippers over on the RCGroups forum, the following are some of my findings:
- The boat is approximately from the mid to late 1980’s and was designed and built by an East Coast sailor, last name of “TURNER”. It was modified at some point to handle a swing rig, and the name of possible rig designer is Jon Elmaleh.
- The hull is a fabric composite, but too flexible to be carbon, even though it is black in color. It looks to have a white gel-coat (or paint) and hull sides are very flexible - thus the small cracks - but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was involved in some on-water collisions, or maybe had the hull damage from poor, unsupported storage.
- It definitely was assembled using using polyester resin, and many attachment support items have broken loose around the perimeter of the resin “puddle”.
- I have proceeded to remove all interior parts with the exception of the mast base/keel trunk, some cross-hull timbers, and have yet to attack the rudder support and rudder post. I have cut and am replacing some of the cross beams at deck level with new basswood - but sealed with epoxy prior to gluing in between gunwales.
- Because the hull was so flexible, I decided to add a very thin veneer to the exterior of the hull. Then stain, and fill any small spaces between the veneer strips with microballoons. Finally will add a coat or two of epoxy with a very thin (1/2 oz/sq. yd.) glass cloth. This should add a bit of abrasion resistance as well and handle any slight variations between veneer strips. (These past several weeks have tried my patience as there have been tremendous humidity changes. One day the strips lie flat, the next day there are some strip edges that have lifted. Will attack these when doing the epoxy coating when all veneer is done.)
- The hull design has a flat bottom section and then has curved hull sides. This is a challenge to veneer, and at certain angles, it almost looks like the center of the hull is raised slightly. It is an optical illusion because of the curve to flat, plus the veneer strips are angled to allow compound bending.
- Because of the changes in humidity, not much stripping has been done. The 2 inch wide strips are laid on at an angle that lets the strip bend to the hull curve - and also to fit to the keel rocker line which is significant and can be seen in the full side view. The stern section of the bottom of the hull (rocker) really rises.
Planned work to be done:
A. I plan to add pieces of sheet balsa inside the hull where flexing still takes place. Will be a coat of epoxy, a piece of 1/64th. thick, 3 inch wide balsa sheet, coated on top with epoxy and covered with wax paper (or plastic shopping bag) so I can lay weights on the balsa to take on the shape of the hull. The plastic will prevent my weights from being glued to the interior of the hull. The weight added will be minimal. I had coated the interior of the hull with straight, non-thickened epoxy and while it help remove flex, there is still too much for my liking.
B. Complete the addition of cross hull deck beams and restore/rebuild the rudder support , log, and base block.
C. The hull came without a keel, bulb or rudder, so today my wood arrived for the fabrication of the rudder, the keel blade, and the mast. I ordered 2 pieces of #1, clear, Western Red Cedar (no knots). The plan is to strip-cut the boards, and then using thin slices, laminate the strips to appropriate thickness, length and shape. Strips will have an orientation to provide fore/aft and side to side stiffness. Since this boat will be a 50/800 (as opposed to a Marblehead) the tip of the mast “may” be bent to form the mast crane, and I may decide to include a permanent mast bend. If the process works, a new mainsail will be needed and will be of a rectangular shape, tapering at the head, and will probably have a “fat head” top. (Non-Marblehead compliant) With plenty of wood, I may also decide to laminate strips into a swing-rig format since the inner swing-rig supports have been left in the hull. Time will tell on that.
The keel blade will also be a series of vertical lamination and be oriented to each other to provide the strongest, non-bending blade possible. While it may not be the most accurate NACA profile, it should be “close enough” for a cruising and play boat with limited racing concerns. Similar process for the rudder.
Once the veneer is protected, I will tape the rudder tube and the keel slot, and add weight to get the boat to float on where I think the waterline should be. From there it will be a matter to estimate the weight of rig and sails, radio gear and batteries and then cast a bulb. I am seeking sheet lead at the moment to try Claudio D’s bulb making concept using thin slices of lead, cut to shape, glued up and then finish formed.
That pretty much brings us up to date. I might take time out, as I purchased a Joysway “Force 60” catamaran and want to get it on the water and try sailing it before winter arrives.
Some photos of veneer application follow.
String stretched on center line between bow and stern. Light spray paint. Remove string when paint is dry to see center line.
Start of the veneer laminating process. Slot is bottom of keel trunk.
Side view of 3 strips of veneer added to existing exterior of hull.
Starboard side view of hull - six strips of mahogany added.
Color difference is the darker was left from a previous 1 Meter veneering
Stain will even out all colors
A look at the starboard side of hull. Veneer strips have been trimmed at top of gunwales.
Bow section will be removed, as cork was used for bumper. Will be replaced with new, cast silicone
bumper that will be softer.
