i have made a hull and keel fin and made my fist attempt at a canting device but it failed horibably and leaked and had to be ground out of my hull. dew to the fact that my first idea failed horibably i was woundering how every one else was doing theres and how well they worked or what would improve there design pictures are better than words so they would be appreciated with a description but any help would help my sinking yacht a great deal. thanks
ps sodium my keel is better than you laminex crap 
How did you do it the first time? I’m not gonna say anything about mine till I’ve put it in the water this afternoon! [:D]
Luff 'em & leave 'em.
sorry should have told you how i built it because im a poor boat building apprentice and do not have access at speciality machines i had to come ip with a quich and eisy way so i found some stainless steel rod and tube that the rod fitted in side i cut my main shaft to lenght then cut a nother lenght as a leiver.
i then cut the tube as a bering surfice and made a flat so i could get more cant i then cut my barings to lenght. with more tube i cut to an inch long (25mm) which i then welded to my shaft placed my baring on one end and welded my leiver to my shaft i then coated my shafy with grease and placed in a hole im my hull i then made a bog mix(faring compound) and fingered it around my bearings. i then covered the whole thing in carbon leivein enough room to cant my keel. on my fiest try it leaked and the bear hull sank in abot 1 min(with out transome) 2nd try i forced more greese in and it sank in about 3 min (with out transome) 3rd time i melted out the greese and forced sikaflex around every where. this slowed my water down but was still un satisfatcory os i ground it all of an have a hull and a fin kust no way of attatching and canting( its blody hard to grind of a canting structure ((with a six and a half inch wide boat with a five and a half inch grinder)) that was not ment to come off or leak)
i have added some pics dont know if the will work or not but ah well
[:-pirate]
Michaelb,
First off, please slow down while you are typing. In your haste you have made many spelling mistakes which makes your posts very difficult to read and understand.
Now, If I understand you correctly, you are attempting to seal the canting mechanism by packing grease into the joint. I think this is the wrong approach. For one thing, it will be a maintenance nightmare even if you do get it to work.
Several of us have been utilizing the idea of a waterproof boot gasket that covers the entire mechanism. My idea was to use the nipple off of a baby bottle. The shaft for the canting mechanism can be glued into the nipple itself so that it sticks out the top. Then the wide circular base of the nipple can be glued to the hull all around the canting mechanism. Thus, you allow the mechanism itself to leak, but then form a waterproof seal around the entire mechanism.
If you want to be able to get in and repair things, you could even take the top of a baby bottle and cut it off and glue it down to the hull around your mechanism. Then you can screw down the top of the baby bottle with the nipple in place to form the watertight seal. That makes it easy to remove to make repairs.
Hope this idea helps.
- Will
Will Gorgen
Michael, e-mail me your snail mail address and I’ll send you a couple of sketches-one of a new system using a trunk and the other a tried and proven system that is 100% watertite.
Where are you? What are you planning to use for lateral resistance? Can you describe your boat in more detail?
Doug Lord
–High Technology Sailing/Racing
Friendly reminder: we all need to remember that English is not the primary language of everyone on this board.
The Other Matt
Matt you are so right…
Wis
if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it!
Here’s details of my design. Note it has not been tested yet, but passed the bath test.
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The carbon fibre hull mouldings.
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The machined parts - alumimium with uhmwpe bushes with a o ring seal.
It,s overboard but what do you expect from a mechanical designer.
Dont worry Michael, your not the only one with a rising damp problem! [:-banghead]
This was the situation after 5 mins in the water this afternoon, where you can see the weave clearly its underwater…
Download Attachment: [ CIMG0078.JPG](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/Matthew Lingley/2004224162232_CIMG0078.JPG)
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Luff 'em & leave 'em.
I have done my keel much along the same lines as John my original boat had a boot system around the keel strut but I felt I could do this better and in my new F100 which is currently under construction I have used needle roller bearings and oil seals at each end to make it water tight and then have a lever off one end for the control of the keel strut.
hope this helps.
Cheers Blair
Michael and others: check out :“RC Canting Keel Mechanism” at the top of page two under this section–much more on canting keel installations.
Doug Lord
–High Technology Sailing/Racing
loa 53 inches 1350mm
max beam 7 inches 180mm
hull is made out of 2 layers or 195 gram aramid with a third in the keel aria
( aramid is a hell of a lot cheeper than carbon and the wright diffrence is minimal and the strenght was not nesacary)
boulkheads are carbon/balsa/aramid
with epoxy resin peel plyed and not vacumed[:(!]
lateral resistance is by keel and rudder only i am at the moment only planing on canting 40 to 45 of center so i dont have the need to have the added drag of a forward rudder or dagger board but i have extra weight in the boulb
i also thought that the yacth might try and round up too much ic i cant any more has any one had a problem with the fin beaing to canted to windward and the boat rounding up because to the extra drag?
keel length is around 800mm or 31 and a half inches
max cord is 90mm or 3 and a half inches
min cord is 75mm 0r 3 inches
keel is a palsa core 2 1.5mm balsa laminated and shaped then covered in 3 layers of uni carbon each side i think the weight is about the same as 195gram cloth but not positive then vacume baged at 25 inches untill resin had jelled the pumped um to about 29 inches pump could not handel 30inches which was a shame and i do not have assess to an autoclave[:(!] (fridge compressors are a wonderfull thing)resin was epoxy
boulb weight 1.5 kg but is subject to change when boat has been sailed and tested
winch
will be a hitec sail winch hs-725bb because thats what i have and it fitted in to my budjet but may look at some thing else for my next boat(when i finally finish this one, it has noly been a yeah in the making)
rudder is carbon tube coverd with faring compound then coverd in a layer of aramid
lenght (depth)240mm
max cord 60mm
min cord 40 mm
rigs well who knows the bigger the better at this stage but again subjected to change
Rising damp - good one. The Brits call the bathtub the ‘domestic test tank’.
Talking to a clubmember yesterday, I showed him the concept of canting keels. This guy has no ties to tradition…he’s talked about putting canard surfaces on his Fairwind, for instance. He’s also one of the best modellers I’ve ever seen (think glass-like sheen on Dumas wood!!!). I can’t wait to see what he does with the concept. This is a widowed older guy - his living room has no furniture except for a kitchen table - and probably 20 R/C airplane models, 5 yachts…he uses his living room window to hang painting projects to cure (using 2-part paint)… Now if I can ujust show him how wing sails work… grin
There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Kenneth Graeme, Wind in the Willows.
Michael, even at 40-45 degrees cant you will need extra lateral resistance ! If you cant 45 degrees and sail the boat with a15 degree angle of heel the keel is at 60 degrees from vertical.
I’ve built and sailed several canting keel prototypes -the last one sailed with a 52 degree cant and there was no noticeable effect whatsoever on the helm as the keel canted.
The speed machine Mari Cha IV has a canting keel w/o any exta lateral resistance but they don’t can’t the keel upwind… Your boat sounds good but you’d better plan on the extra underwater area or upwind performance in a breeze will be very poor…
Doug Lord
–High Technology Sailing/Racing
Rob; Unfortuately it draws too much for the bath, so it ends up in the garden pond with the koi carp smacking the fin!
Michael; Impresssive sounding stuff with the compressor. Its fiddly enough with the right gear to stop air leaks, nice one!
Luff 'em & leave 'em.
air leaks were not the problem ah the wonders of tacky tape and teflon tape
30 inches of vac is raliatively eisy to obtain if your vac pump can get to 30 inches just running with no parts on the go. but mine can only get to around 28 to 29 which is not to bad because 30inches is the max vacume you can get at sea level with out preusirising the out side of the bag(autoclaving) tacky tape is a wonderfull thing any way
hoods/boots hold water in the hull and water in the hull makes my boat heavy and a heavy boat is a slow boat
When the Apprentice knows more than the Mentor its time to quit!