Hello to you all!
I am thinking of building my first one metre yacht and I was wondering if there is a downloadable manual or book of how to construct a boat from scratch. I downloaded th U.S. One Meter Construction Guide which I found interesting and helpful. I still need help to read plans though.
regards to all
That is the guide…I 3 ringed it and put it in a binder. It isn’t complete but using these forums I was able to fill in the rest for the blanks.
I am also now at this and am about to put my mast on my scratch mistral! It is very cool to build it completly from scratch…just be pacient and don’t rush it. I rushed it alittle and I now know some better ways to do things. the process is so much fun, enjoy.\
the manual is a great idea
you can download alot of plans. i know mistral, advance,orco,majic , are online as well as the IOMs vanquis,silver, triple crown, arrow. i have not found any marblehead but still looking. I would suggest advance or triple crown. both boats are easy to assemble. and with some tweaking can be fast
i have built advance as well as triple crown. but most of the boats i have are my own design. use the manual. for your first boat. it will walk you though each step.
long live the cup and cris dickson
Thanks for the help! I guess that I have to fill in the ‘gaps’ by asking you lot if you don’t mind!!
Cougar I saw your NZL-60. . . . I like it very much… I think that I am inclined to the IACC class because I like replicas… but what I will do is to build a triple crown hull out of cardboard and see the result. It will never sail but I will try to get the hang of planking… aftrr that I will consider which project to do. Either an IOM or an IACC.
One of my difficulties is the stem piece, is this stuck to the hull after planking or when fixing the formers?
Thanks for your help
The stem piece is part of the formers (shadows), it gets butted up to the 1st shadow and becomes the very front of the boat. I had the same ? too.
You can build the stem piece into the hull if you like. I laminated mine from 2 pieces of 1.2mm ply - light and stiff. Rather than fix it to the forward shadow, I glued it to a bow bulkhead, also made of the same 1.2mm ply laminate, which is 13mm back from the bow of my IOM, and therefore forms the base of the silicon bow bumper. (The bumber need to be at least 10mm, so I have a 3mm margin over that). The bow bulkhead is then screwed, temporarily, to a support fixed to the building board. I use 3 very small screws for this. By using a permanent bow bulkhead and stem piece, it gives me a very convenient base to glue my planks to, and the gunwhales and keelson, positions the stem exactly where I want it, and adds strength in the bow which I may otherwise not have if I sand my planks a little too much when getting the hull ready for the fibreglass. I believe it adds very little weight and just makes the job a little easier (for me at least). Once the planking is in place, the temporary screws can be removed and the forward support taken off the building board, thus clearing the way for the fibreglassing of the hull.
You don’t have to use a permanent forward bulkhead, which is of course a very narrow piece - only the same width as the base of the bow bumper. The stem piece alone does the job. I use the bow bulkhead because it give me something to screw too (those temprary screws I mentioned) and give me the shape I want to fair and finish the planking to before I fibreglass the hull.
Thanks for the info…
Muzza If I understood you correctly, the set-up is similar to you new hull design comprising of 11 formers. I saw a jpg of it in another stream. am I right?
Yup - that’s it. I can post a more detailed photo of the stem piece and the temporary fixture to the building board if it is of any help.
yes please it would help me a lot… I am learning more from pictures than just text!
I’ve tried uploading some pics, but the attachments are not showing in the post. I’m not sure if its still a problem with the site (there was a problem a week or so ago), or just my fault. I’ve sent a message to Chad, so check back in a day or so.
try here than just use the number they give you to put an html image in your post that displays the image.
or e-mail it to me and i will try and get them up.
The first image shows the stem piece and the forward shadow, glued in a T shape. The cross markings are center and height references.
The second image shows the support to which the bow shadow is screwed by three small, temporary, screws. The 1" chipboard building board is stiffened up by 2x cross wise 1" reinforcers and 1 lengthwise. The lower screw holding the support onto the building board is into the lengthwise strengthener. This is my Dog’s Breakfast design - a very simple double chine IOM, quick and easy to build with 3 panels each side.
This third image is a close-up of the stem/bow structure temporarily fitted to the support. Balsa spacers can be seen, which are used to get the distance (in this case the front end of the bow shadow is 13mm back from the intended front of the bow bumper) and stem angle correct.
You can see that 2 of the 3 panels are fitted and butt up to the bow shadow quite nicely for gluing. After the 3rd panel was fitted, the temporary support was removed prior to finishing and fairing the hull ready for fiberglassing. A small amount of epoxy and micro-balloons, and then light sanding in line with the bow shadow was all that was required. I’ve got some photos of that but they are still in the camera. The keelson was trimmed down to shape with a hand plane and sand paper.
Slightly unconventional, but it worked well.
The photos are great especially the third one… it will solve much o my problems in the sense that Know I know go about it. I will upload some photos as soon as I get started… I am still in the designing stage, but soon will start the planking.!!
Here is the bow stem ( left inside ) as I prepared to lay up veneer in a cold mold. Angling the veneer strips allows for compound bend. The station templates were removed, the stringers were left inside as was the bow stem.
It looked great, but too thin of veneer and I got all sort of hollows between stringers - even as close as they are. Might try to resurrect by adding a second layer to see if hollows go away. Hull desin is Mistral
Download Attachment: [ smMistral Bow Veneer 2.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/20041122145014_smMistral Bow Veneer 2.jpg)
Muzza, I was reviewing your pictures again and noticed in image…13 that you used one plank of balsa… Am I right? did you manage to bend it nicely since it is a ‘big’ piece of balsa?
I know it’s a bit early at this stage to talk about winches and possible sheeting BUT I would like to start reading about this. Anyone has any good explanation of how it works? I am finding it difficult to find info on line
thanks to all
The images I posted are for a multi-chine hull, rather than a conventional round-bilge hull. This particular design has 3 planks each side. The use of a built in stem piece works just as well on a conventional round-bilge strip plank design, which was what we were demonstrating here. The multi chine hull looks rather boxy by comparison. Yes, each of the chines needs to bend through curves in two dimensions, especially the chine nearest the keelson.