Apsara Hard Chine

Thankyou :slight_smile:

I must check the rudder, but itā€™s purely for pleasure so I wonā€™t make any changes.
I would like to change the sheeting layout but I think I should just leave it and learn from the experience as itā€™s ā€œMy daughters boatā€ lol

Itā€™s definately sticking out :confused:

I was so busy trying to get the angle on the top of the rudder to match the hull, I didnā€™t even look at that.
If I had seen it during the build, what would have been the best remedy?
To adjust the rudder post angle so that the rudder is within spec and re-shape the top of the rudder so itā€™s got the correct angle for the hull?
Slide the rudder post forward?

Thanks in advance

I would say adjust the angle. Will need to take a slice of off the top of the rudder blade so that it stays near the hull.

Also, why is your fin angled backwards? Normally they are vertical.

Thanks.

The fin is as per the plans. I actually asked about that early on and Claudio recommended following the plans precisely as designers do things for a reasonā€¦ So I followed his advice lol.
Itā€™s probably to get the CLR further back behind the sail plan if my reading has been correct?
So the keel box is forward to give hull space and the angle moves the bulb back?
I have no clue really lol

If ClaudioD says that, I believe him, too! Iā€™m also building a ClaudioD design: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2431902

This boat was for my 7year old daughter and Iā€™m now doing a footy for my 3 year old because her sister has a boat which isnā€™t fair. It must be ā€œa pink unicornā€
And both of those are practice for Dads yachtā€¦

Iā€™m very keen on trying Claudioā€™s Ruby M but Iā€™m not sure my little dam is deep enough.
Iā€™m a bit confused about which class to be honest.
Claudioā€™s M
IACC 120
IOM.

To add to your confusion, I also like to build boats, so Iā€™m into RG65 class because:

-They are small and light (65cm lenght, 1200gr mƔx), so you can carry them easily.
-Smaller also means easier to build
-There are lots of free designs around (ClaudioD as a long listā€¦)
-There is no top performer design that you can buy for $$$. This means home built boats are competitive!
-Fiberglass or balsa hulls are both competitive (given they are light, of course!)

Thanks lol.

Its looking like Iā€™m turning into a serial builder. Iā€™m loving learning all skills and slowly starting to understand the physics a little bit better.

The RG 65ā€™s are very cool. The guys at a dam nearby kindly let me join in their club day a while back. The 1m boats just looked so awesome the way they cut through the water that it got me thinking of trying something bigger.

I will follow the thread on RCgroup and the log on here :slight_smile:

Go for what is sailed by the locals! Best advice ever. It will bore you to sail alone when you are looking at otherā€™s races!

Makes sense:)

Hi Naptalene,
I do not recall having made any comments about the Apsara Plan.
It will be not correct and unfair for me to express any comments on designs made by another designer. Simply follow what the designer is proposing
Further I do not even knows where Apsara CLR is positioned and it is not of my concern.

Here below Apsara Plan where I just simulated the position of the rudder as mentioned by Dick, nothing else.
BTW I found on the web another Apsara Plan. See Below with a rudder toward the Mast!

My principle is to talk only about my Projects.

About Class M, I do have various designs.

Cheers
ClaudioD

Important !

The boat design shall be compatible with the wind local average speed unless you travel a lot.

You may also decide for an ā€œAll Roundā€ design with the intrinsic performances.

Any design will exhibit the best performance only with ā€œone wind speedā€ā€¦ see a sort of Gaussian curve.

It is also necessary to ads that a High Prismatic Coefficient will behave better with Low Winds then a Low Prismatic Coefficient with High Winds

ClaudioD

Hi Claudio,

I must apologise for any confusion.
Your advice was to follow the plans as per the designers recomendations, thatā€™s all.
The following comments that were made were my ramblings, and not comments from you. I will be more aware of my formatting in the future.

Thanks for finding those other plans for me, I appreciate the time you spent.

Marbleheadsā€¦

I have sent my forms to join our local club and it appears that itā€™s a variety of yachts (not a single class that dominates) so it would appear that I can happily try a Marblehead as opposed to an IOM.
For whatever reason the Marbleheads look amazing to my eye and I get a giddy feeling when I think of attempting to build one, so it makes sense to try build what gives you the most pleasure.
My wifeā€™s face is going to be interesting when she sees the size of it.

Windspeeds seem to be in the 8-16 knot bracket as per this website:
http://wap2.windguru.cz/view.php?&sc=178144&m=3&n=&from=search&start=0&full=1

and I downloaded an app that lets me see the windspeed at various locations and its apparantly 8knots at this point so those speeds seem to be correct.
We get higher speeds but that is invariably with a storm where lightning is an issue so sailing is not option.

I am by no means a sailor so I would think that a forgiving boat would be a good idea?

Thankyou.

You may also see the yearly evolution by checking ā€œstatisticsā€ : http://fr.windfinder.com/windstatistics/Johannesburg_or_tambo_airport

What I can see is that there is an average constant wind of 12 Kt and this imply a specific design with medium-high Prismatic Coefficient let says in the range : 0.58/0.59.
Would be wise asking to the Club the wind characteristics they meet and if they agree to tell what is the common PC used by others sailors if they agree to reveals their secrets !!!