I am somewhat familiar with boat building methods and the methods that a deck is joined to a hull. There is the straight ‘face to face’ where the deck is laid flat and adhered to the shear strip. The other technique I know of is the ‘clam shell’ method where the deck has a vertical lip all around that gloves the hull and when glued creates a watertight seal. Well now I’ve come across another method that I think was more a lack of building experience rather than an intentional build practice.
I picked up a hull from a fellow who bought it just to resell it for a profit. The price was right so I figured ‘why not’. Well I am starting to regret the decision.
This boat is odd as the deck is 12 to 18mm larger than the hull. It overhangs the main body of the boat. Someone glued and screwed the deck onto the horizontal lip which looks like it may be the top lip of the mold but was never cut away.
Is this/was this a common practice for adhering the deck?
And again, I bought another boat with no plans, no manufacture’s identification and no idea how to make it fit for the water. All there is is a person’s name and the year 1991 on the inside of the rear deck hatch.
Maybe it might be best if I just invest a few dollars in a HobbyKing 1m yacht and stop fooling around with these older boats (but their lines appeal to me so much more than what they have for sale).
Thanks
Wally
Invest in a Hobbyking? Only you can answer that, but from a personal perspective, no!! The more traditional hull lines win hands down every time for me…
In terms of your current project, first of all does the hull/deck interface leak? If not (and you can live with the visual effect) leave well alone & get sailing. However, if it were me, I’d be inclined to remove the deck, bond in some inwhales, remove the outer hull flange and then re-bond the deck, giving a more ‘normal’ look (and far more attractive).
Whatever you decide to do, you look to have aquired a very attractive yacht (is it an early marblehead?) so good luck & happy sailing…
regards,
Row
I’m not crazy about the HobbyKing stuff. I do like the traditional as you call it.
Only issue with that is that it didn’t come with a mast or sails.
How does one go about one go about making a mast and sails without any size reference? Please don’t say the bathtub as this thing has an affixed balast and at 58" long I don’t think it will fit in the tub without it overflowing.
As far as the deck/hull joint, that was to be a winter project. I really don’t lie the look and the deck is bowed to boot.
Wally
I can’t say I’ve ever seen this kind of deck hull join now in all my years of sailing but I would be with row on this and cut the lip and re-do the deck like a normal deck which looking at the picture shouldn’t be too complicated as it looks to be a flat deck. For the size of the mast since the bulb is relatively short I wouldn’t go mad on them and aim for a mast a bit longer than the length of the boat, you may be underpowered but you don’t have much of choice with a bulb like that as gusts hit you you’ll heel too much and go nowhere otherwise.
Hope it helps
G
At 58" long, I would be inclined to consider the specs for an “A” sail for an “M” Class (Marblehead) or a 10 Rater at similar waterline length as a place to start. You can make a mast from straight grained pine or spruce, and same for booms for jib and main. At least it is a starting point, and you can go from there - bigger sail area, or smaller - but make your sails from a single panel. Will eliminate a lot of speculative work. Once you finalize, then go back and make paneled sails if you want.
ADDED: The deck appears to have the mast position located, but just put a nail into bottom of mast, cut off the head, and it will allow you to set the mast forward or aft to help eliminate or add any needed weather or lee helm. Take a look (Search) for some of Claudio’s newest designs, as he provides some usable dimensions for sails, and mast.
Good luck with the project - I too would cut off the external “deck flange” and add inwhales and put the deck on. If you don’t have any leaks, you also use an aggressive grit sandpaper or disc and cut the edges back to meet the hull. Might have to smear some thickened epoxy to seal up any minor leaks. Can’t tell from photos, if screws terminate inside hull or outside. If inside, you may not to remove the deck at all to update.
At 58" this boat is not a Marblehead, although it looks like one.
Obviously, because each and every Marblehead that was ever made is 50" long.
Most likely this boat is a 10-Rater.
The best thing to do here is nothing at all.
Leave it the way it is. What the heck is wrong with the deck flange.
That’s the way it was made, so keep it.
Had the designer of this boat mounted the keel on the foredeck. I’d say, yes, something needs to be changed here.
Put a rig on it. Put it in the water. Done deal.
Ummm BW ---- that is what I was suggesting and used the Marblehead rig as a starting point. There is too much variation in the 10Rater Class rigs (due to waterline differences) and why the “M” was suggested over the 10R.
Cheers