hi friends
i am just wondering who here would be interested in a section for giving a how to section. example; how to plank a hull?
this would be a section for the new sailors that are coming into the hobby. and maybe jump start some creative idea? for one; does anybody know how to make a cheap boomvang?
long live the cup[:-angel]

Yeah that could be a good one! Nice idea Cougar!

Luff 'em & leave 'em.

You asked for inexpensive ideas -

<u>BOOM VANG</u>
2 screw eyes (or cotter pins depending on sail area size and resulting forces)
1 piece of dacron or Spectra line
1 bowsie (not visible in photo)

Download Attachment: [ smMast - Illusion.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/2004420173040_smMast - Illusion.jpg)

Mount one screw eye to bottom of boom.
Mount second screw eye to back of mast near base
Run line from screw eye on mast to screw eye on boom and through bowsie. You can make it multiple part (2:1) if you want
Adjust tension by moving bowsie

COST: Less than $ .25 U.S. and works just fine.
(Tip: be sure to keep holes in bowsie small to prevent line from slipping)

This will allow boom movement to either side of the hull in heavy as well as light air and only friction is the line against the screw eye.


GREAT IDEA…always looking for new ideas for doing the “little” things.


what about? making turnbuckles? or pouring your own bulbs
i think that this would go into the new class section
but we would need people to actauly go into the thread and give helpful or alternative suggestions
i do this one way. but dick may do it another way. and jeff smith who is new to this could read this , and decide for himself. which is better one he likes
long live the cup


An inexpensive but working turnbuckle can be created using:

2 screw eyes
1 short length of brass tubing
1 flat head (or bevel head) machine screw

Works best near top of mast for shrouds or diamond wire adjustments. While the photo looks like the threads are coming through the tube, they aren’t and this turnbuckle continues to function. This turnbuckle adjusts both side shrouds (or diamond wires) at the same time.

Download Attachment: [ turnbuckle.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/200442021122_turnbuckle.jpg)

1 Mount one screw eye above the turnbuckle location.

2 Cut a piece of brass tube about 1/2 inch longer than the machine screw you are using. I use a 1 inch screw, so my brass tube is about 1 1/2 inches long.

  1. Flaten one end of the brass tube using hammer or vise. Drill a small hole and remove any metal burrs or sharp edge.

  2. Using a tap, thread the inside of the tube with a thread size to match the threads on machine screw.

  3. Run your diamond (or shroud) wire through the hole in the flat area of tube and add a crimp to hold wires together. Squeeze tight to prevent sliding or slipping of wire.

  4. Determine length of shroud needed and attach a swivel hook to other end that will fasten to deck. Make each side or the shrouds exactly the same length.

  5. Add a second screw eye about 1 inch below the turnbuckle location.

(Photo shows front of mast and this turnbuckle adjusts diamond wire tension)

  1. Insert brass screw through the top screw eye.

  2. Thread the brass tube onto the machine screw. Thread tube just far enough onto screw to assure the threads will grip the tube threads.

  3. After locating second (lower) screw eye - see #7 above - run shrouds or diamond wires through the lower screw eye and end off where desired.

  4. Use a screw driver and tighten the screw which will lift the tube part of the turnbuckle. This in turn will tighten the wires going through the tube. The length of machine screw and tube will determine the amount of adjustment available. Loosen the single turnbuckle for side shrouds and both will loosen at the same time to remove mast. Reverse procedure when stepping mast. Once adjusted, you only need to tighten or loosen to adjust tension.

Refer to photo for more detail. Post if any questions.

Probably less than $ .45 U.S. plus cost of shroud wires.

Dick - very cool. I need a little help, though, figuring out what is going on where the wires all come together at the lower screw eye. I understand your description, but can’t quite match it up to the picture.


The Other Matt

Disregard the black dacron lines - they go to jib uphaul/halyard. The lower crimp (silver tube) is where the wires are held together.

Both the diamond wires go down from the tube, through the scr<s><font color=“red”>e</font id=“red”></s>ew eye (lower and then spread to spreader arms. The lower screw eye keeps the pull vertical on the wires rather than pulling inward from the sides. <font color=“red”>Keeps the tension parallel and in direct line with the turnbuckle. You could replace the tube with a piece of square brass stock, drill a hole and then tap it if you feel insecure using the thin wall brass tube. </font id=“red”>

<font color=“red”>edit</font id=“red”>

Bit heavy to be that far up the mast surely?!

Luff 'em & leave 'em.

Nope, if you weigh it, my guess it weighs a heck of a lot less than some of the wind indicators I’ve seen up there! Plus, on the front of the mast and above the jib it doesn’t stick out into the airflow.

Hard to tell, but this one was on a wood mast that had been foil shaped.

If of major concern, it will work upside down too, so it could be mounted near base of mast - but would replace screw with small hex-head bolt of same fine thread. Would need a small wrench to adjust instead of screw driver.

Hmmmm - will have to see if I have an extra laying around and throw it on the mail scales at work.

HOW TO or tips and tricks

As a newbie I like it.

Strip planking
aFound a interesting article in regards to this Granted it is about airplanes but the information seems good to me


<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by Matthew Lingley

Bit heavy to be that far up the mast surely?!
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>

Matthew, as promised (sort of) - here is the information you (sort of) requested.

I could not find an unused brass tube type as described above, but here is one made from brass square stock. The area around the shroud hole is cut/filed back and it is about 1/8" thick. (about .317 cm)
<hr noshade size=“1”>
Square Brass Turnbuckle: [ turnbuckle 001.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/2004423103810_turnbuckle 001.jpg)
15.62KB<hr noshade size=“1”>

As noted by the photo, when the machine screw is fully extended, the overall length is almost 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) and the total weight is 2.8 grams (0.1 oz.).

Since one turnbuckle can adjust two shrouds, or both sides of a diamond wire setup, I would suggest the weight and size aloft is much less than two separate turnbuckles (or 4 if you are adjusting both diamonds AND shrouds) and mounted near the deck. I would, however be interested in seeing your turnbuckle alternative if it is lighter/smaller than this one.

that is a great picture. and it is some what what i use on my old IOM. when you did your? did you have a problem with the tibe spinning , when you started tighten the screw?. i had to put a second screw eye, at the bottom. and hold the tube between the eyes.
come on people . there has to be more ideas out there?

Cougar - I use a small pair of needlenose pliers to keep from spinning. Usually once there is tension on the wires, it will try to turn but only goes about 1/4 way. I just grab on the flat sot of the tube where wire goes through. The square section one seem to resist turning more than the tube type - but I feel the tube type is even lighter in weight.