Many thanks Earl
I will consider the rudder dimensions as you suggest.
My choice fall on option 3 because it give me the filling that the slim keel could be more fluid, is just an impression knowing that what is matter is the front section area.
I just made a review of the mast/rig position and the CE as well. The advance will be around 11.5% with the actual rudder size.
The particularity is that the mast step is actually close to frame 3 and therefore rather advanced. The main boom being some 725mm long.
It may come out that the rig will be repositione bacward up to obtain an advance of around 9%.
Obviously I have no data on similar RC models, what could be a typical advance, probably You may help on that figure !
Regards
Claudio.
Here it is : the image may be deformed by the Jpeg conversion .
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
and the Rig
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The 36 inch Yankee III runs about 8% but the CLR on these long keel boats does strange and wonderful things when the boat heels and so I’m skeptical of any number derived from an analysis of an upright hull. For this reason (and many others) I strongly recommend building the boat with a removable deck. The new automotive gasket making material (non-adhesive sealants) work very well. I would make a test deck and sail her to find the true mast position for your particular sail plan. Then you can put a compression strut there running down to the ballast.
A removable deck also enables the use of a small hatch, useful because these are very wet boats. The Yankee III deck is held down by 36 screws, which is a pain to remove but you’ll thank yourself the first time there’s a problem. I also hang the radio and sail servo from the deck, so it all comes off as a unit for testing.
Cheers,
Earl
HI Earl,
got the message, I will use a deck mockup first.
Regards
Claudio
Hello Kingplank,
Where did you locate hull drawings for your Fife boats? I am interested in building a scale 6m or 8m.
Thanx
Todd
