Exploring various devices availables on the marked I was attracted by this element , a belt used very often on printers.
The interest is for the modulus of 2.5mm and wide 4mm
The idea is to bond the belt upside-down in a wheel.
Based on that a redrawn the rope-eater for both use, the ball-chain and the dacron string.
BTW the ball chain broken after a pull force of 25Kg !
To reach this configuration was necessary to play with various diameters and tooth as for the drive gears as well for the diameter of the belt weel .
I think my experimental design research will stop here !!
ClaudioD
Hello Claudio,
So are you going to use the “flat” side of the belt as your "biting"surfaces?
Brian
Hi Brian,
No, the flat side is bonded to the wheel as depicted in the drawing while the tooth are bitting the rope or ball chain.
ClaudioD
Sanding with 60grain and 120 grain completed.
Small areas need some filler about or less then 0.1mm thick.
ClaudioD
wood Filler before fine sanding !
ClaudioD
1st glass layer impregnated with epoxy resin - ratio 50/50
Peel Ply ribbon used to remove excess of resin if any.
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio,
Is the white pre-coat a primer paint, or is it white tinted epoxy?
Hi Lemm,
Is a spray primer paint or undercoat .
It serve to me to trace, with the wet sanding, bumbs and hollows areas.
Generally the most difficult, for me, is to check how ‘flat’ is a hull flat surface also with backlight ! The area of concern is the one that may flex more under hand pressure as shown in this image :
ClaudioD
The message I posted this morning diappeared ! probably too many (10) images at once ?
I start up again splitting the pics.
Today was the wet sanding with a 280 paper that was not of a very good quality, therefore was longer then expected. No need to go any further since I will paint the hull again
followed by a lamination of 2 layers of 80g/m². I need shopping since I have no spray paint and no glass fiber in stock.
ClaudioD
Claudio,
Really is looking superb!
I’m intrigued though - the last two few pictures of your posting (48 - 52) show the plug with a high gloss finish. Is that because you’ve worked up through the grades of paper & polished or is it just water covering the surface? Either way it looks to be a very slippery hull which should convert to a very quick boat.
Regards,
Row
Row,
just spraying water over and observe the smoothness obtained with the 280 grade.
Using some strait colored reflected objects , you may detect imperfections. This trick is used by photografers when shooting to car body for publicity to get reflective effects and at the same time enhancing the shape forms. Several software call it “rendering” with various light spot options. My “rendering” in this case is a simple water pipe , photo camera and day light and I ensure is faster and cheaper !!
The gloss will increase with the use of finer grade paper, but actually I stop here since I will first paint the hull and the cover it with 2 layers of 80g/m² glass with the aim to get the master ready for an eventual female mould. This do not mean that I will do it now, since the first hull will be laminated directly on the master plug.
BTW, ordering new abrasive papers , I found this table of correspondences and sources :
For instance a Mesh USA 220 grade will correspond to some between 240 and 320 grade in Fepa Europe, etc.
Cheers
ClaudioD
Coated Black before laminating with glass fiber/epoxy - 2 layers of 80g/m²
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio,
More questions from me!
I picture #30, 31, 32 (post #145) you show the hull after sanding the filler. Have you applied clear epoxy in those pictures, or a sanding sealer coat or something? It doesn’t look like bare wood, and I was wondering if something else went on before the paint coat in order to help with wet sanding (like keeping the wood sealed against the water)?
Also, will you be using this plug to make a female production mold? I ask because I see you have finished the shape of the bow completely, whereas your AC100 build was done as a male mold with an open bow…
Just curious! I am back to working on my IACC120 again. Just epoxied the interior of the hull last night, so I am right at that point.
Thanks!
Kevin
Hi,
After wood filler and dry sanding I applied a “wood sealant” that give the color you have seen. The wood sealant is suppose to penetrate the wood pours and allowing a better finish . The sealant went dry a couple of hours later after. I started againg with Dry sanding. The dust was finally removed. Until this point no water was used.
With this late dry sanding the surface was already rather smooth and sufficient to apply the first glass/epoxy fiber coat.
The idea is to produce the best plug surface finish in view of making a female mould. The bow cut will be non integrated in the mould that will remain open as usual. The sloped bow will be equipped with a classic bumber. The first model will be anyhow laminated directly on the plug.
Why all that ? simply, for me is better to go up to the end of the finishing work when the last step is the wax application. Once the wax is applied it will be very difficult to modify the surface finish.
Cheers
ClaudioD
While waiting that the black paint getting dry (72h) , I started drawing , printing and cutting the counter-shadows that will be used to make the hull support in place of the female mould.
ClaudioD
In spite of my absence, the work continued !
Meanwhile I managed to draw a new Class M (Marblehead) that I will present in another tread.
ClaudioD
