With this tread I do intend to present the “build-log” for the construction of the RC model of the Enterprise winner on Shamrock in 1930.
The model was supposed to be scaled down as an 1/2 J Class, but after some toughts, I decided to come up with a lengt similar to a M Class.
The Keel form has been modified in order to lower the ballast for a better righting moment, the Sail plan is reduced to 90% of the real scaled to 1/28
Actually the caracteristics are :
LOA 1315 mm
LWL 870 mm
Beam 242 mm
Draft 200 mm (real scale 1/28 = 160mm)
Displ. 6167 g (real scale 1/28 = 5810g)
Ballast 3900 g
Ratio 63 %
Mast 1660 mm
Sails 8130 cm²
In attachments the basic drawings :
The original drawings are from the ‘America Cup Yacht Design -1851-1986’ of F.Chevalier & J. Tagland
The work start with the redrawing each single frame into an A4 format, cause my printer. For the large frames was necessary to print two halves.
All my models from A to Z, are drawn with an old version of CorelDraw 5.
Don’t worry Earl,
I was just talking to François some days ago since I was asking to him the deck plan layout of Enterprise, I should receice a copy shortly.
I knows that some times the plans presents surprises.
Some 3 years ago, I was searching the plans of Tuiga one of the magic William Fife, and the only availabe source I found, was a french magazine that published years ago.
Once received, I was surprised to find out that the frames has little to do with the hull lines.
I redraw entirely the full hull using the frames drawing as valid reference.
Fotunayely the Tuiga is anchored in Monaco at 20 miles from home and when I need something I just go and visit her easy for me being Member of the Tuiga Association !!
Some of my work for Tuiga was published here : http://www.nonsolovele.com/Tecniche.shtml
under the “Le barche” and then under “vintage” -
there, you will find a couple of PDF files dedicated to Tuiga that can be downloaded.
Ah, yes, I forgot that you had access to the source For those not so lucky, or who are not familiar with the uncertainties surrounding boat plans, there are a couple of quotes that are informative:
John Black (great American model yachtsman of the 1930’s): “Never Trust a Blueprint.”
Allan Vaitses (author of the standard text on lofting): “A fair line trumps any given measurement.”
Anyone who has struggled with poor drawings really appreciates Nathanael Herreshoff’s practice of designing in three dimensions by carving half-hulls. In my Yankee III book I recommend beginning by carving a half-hull in order to gain an appreciation of the subtlety of the lines of a typical fin-keel boat. The real design occurs on the building board (for models) and on the loft room floor (for full-size boats of that period.) In fact, L. Francis Herreshoff complained bitterly that the loftsmen at the Lawley yard changed the lines of his J boat “Whirlwind” so much that it no longer was the boat he designed.
You are right Earl,
some time I wonder if all that is not done by purpose as to mislead some curious or too curious people.
Anyhow I’ m use to look at the lines and smooth/balance them at least to please the eyes.
The Enterprise setting continues
Today I’m particularly happy, I just received the book “Enterprise to Endeavour” of Jean Dear - I will spend the rest of the day consulting it
PS : Just finish the frame’s gross cuts, Tomorrow the fine cuts
The intention is to laminate directly on the plug.
In order to make easy the laminated surface separation , I would like to insert tiny alluminium wedges all along the hull profile and all around the deck line.
Once the lamination of one side is terminated, the profile wedge will be removed and the second lamination made on the first still protected by a film to avoid adherence.
Once the two halves will be removed from the plug, the junction will be operated with glass/epoxy.
The drawing below show the intents.
I will appreciate to knows if some one has already operated in this way and get some advises .
Hull plug removed from the the baseplan.
Most of the frames are partially removed to facilitate the epoxy resin coating.
3 frames are keept as supports to the base plan for mastic and sanding operations.
The filler story !
in order to repair the imperfections, after a summary sanding , I coated the surface with the white spray primer as usually I do on fiberglass surface before painting.
The idea was to exalts the surface defects for better filling with polyester filler.
It came out a disaster, the day after, I was supposed to start sanding, the filler was dry but discovering that was not adhering to the coated surface.
A sanding drammatic day to remove all the filler.
Two causes : uncompatibility with the spray acrilic primer coat or the polyester filler was too old, probably both
I was so nervous that I went too far sanding away part of the Keel line, see picture.
Bought new filler and again one day for application and another good day of sanding.
The surface is much better even not a mirror like . Tomorrow I will laminate the hull with fiberglass/epoxy to get a strongher base. Small imperfections will be corrected after.
Brilliant dark paint will be used to identify surface imperfections using the back lite and negatives shadows.
You mentioned earlier that you’re laminating each side of the hull seperately and then joining the two halves together, can you inform (the uneducated …like me) why you are making the hull in two parts and not as one, are there seperation problems from the plug as one piece hull ?
the actual pictures refers to the plug lamination for reinforcement and mirror finish in view of a subsequent direct hull lamination.
Actually this lamination is made in two parts to easy the work, each side is a single piece of glass.
For the hull a fear some problems at the time of demoulding, therefore, probably I will follows the same principle in order to make the separation simple of each side, unless, leaving the rudder edge open it may be possible to insert blades in the keel area to help the separation.
In the past, fearing some difficulties of this kind, I have made a female mould in two parts. It was extremely easy to remove in a single piece the Tuiga Hull.
This time it is not my intention to make a mould, just laminating onto the positive plug.
The keel is rather narrow and it will be difficult to laminate inside a mould with even a small brush.
This sketch may suggest a way to clear up my doubts :