What about MARBLEHEAD ?

Rcsailing.net New Classes
41

Well Dick, we have waited for these “other people’s views on Marbleheads”. Quite frankly Dick, I’m a great believer in stating where you stand and other people can decide where they stand or indeed if they stand at all.

Maybe the level that people want to go in reading about what you and I are thinking is zilch. Maybe they’re think we are just taking up space? There are heaps of people, who just become innocent by-standers of life, who don’t want to get “involved”. Something goes out of there lives though, if they can’t read your views Dick , on you views. Any more great Mini photos on WAHOOOOOOing?

What they don’t perceive, is that they are the ones that are actually missing out.

Earl , thanks for the last email already had Andrew Charters page. nice models!

42

Hey Dick how about HI-Jacking this subject for awhile and telling us about how you are fitting your mini in your wagon? and give us the pictures, too. Hitting the road with Dick and his mini. I need to organize my Hyundia Sportwagon a bit more , a few clues will help here shipmate?

43

The F-48 - (not a Mini40 - don’t want to upset our French readers) is still in building progress. It was sidelined for slightly more than a year while I built the MultiONE (1 Meter). Then the stroke, and hopefully now back to building. A possible contract builder is in the works as well (see multihull area of the forum) so it is now a question of proceeding with what I started - or see what he puts out and buy into that.

Even at 1 Meter, the space taken up can be a problem. Sitting on the driveway next to the family car, you can see it certainly takes up more room than a “Footy”![:D]

Download 1 Meter Attachment: [ Nexttocar.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/2005713214239_Nexttocar.jpg)
17.29KB

and if it still remains a problem, there is always the old, standby truck. (Recently replaced with a four door 3/4 ton, and Damn the gas prices!)

Download 1 Meter in Truck Attachment: [ smInTruck.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/2005713214528_smInTruck.jpg)
34.76KB

Now, “if” I was required to transport in a knocked down state - a screwdriver would result in quick disassemble. Each side shroud bridle wire ti attached to a beam end, and secures the float inside the cross beam tube. Remove the 4 screws, and the floats slide off the crossbeam.

Download Crossbeam-Bridlewire Attachment: [ smBridlewire001.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/2005713215654_smBridlewire001.jpg)
10.82KB

Then the cross beam slides out of the main hull supports. You now have a main hull, two floats, and two cross beams. Remove the daggerboard and the rudder (set screw) and take the main and jib off the mast connections. I roll up the main parallel with the full length battens and the jib is also rolled up. (Around a cardboard tube) The mast for the MultiONE is a bit of a problem at just under 70 inches, but will fit across the back seat at an angle. If traveling short distances or alone, I only need to remove the mast, as the entire trimaran platform will sit on it’s side in the back seat of the car (or truck). Can even leave board and rudder attached - but I know I am playing the odds with the rudder left on. Sooner or later it will be “wacked” into the car door frame if not careful. My little old (1990) Ford Escort has a hatch back and fold down rear seats so again, remove mast and lay on flat floor area of the Escort.

Now for the bigger F-48 I envision the same process but with slight longer hulls - 48 inches instead of 39 (or 1.2 meters instead of 1 meter). The big question will be the mast. My current mast is slightly less than 8 feet in length, having been shortened to fit the boat after this photo was taken.

Download F-48 Mast Attachment: [ smF-48HTWfull.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/200571322351_smF-48HTWfull.jpg)
13.42KB

This mast has been sleeved and is a two piece mast, so I need to loosen the diamond wire and then slide the top portion off the bottom portion. The remainder would travel much like the MultiONE.

Finally, a future build I want to try is a 2 Meter “monster” and due to it’s size, the thing will need to be broken down and carried in the back bed of the truck, or perhaps a special trailer like this one from one of you “Crazy Down Under” guys! [:D]

Download 2 Meter Attachment: [ Image11sm.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/dick lemke/200571322740_Image11sm.jpg)
21.34KB

Anyway - there are a variety of ways to breakdown and travel. Assembly on site is only a bit longer than a monohull, as they still must rig too. (“Footy” excepted, of course) I also have sketches of a mast carry case I devised from two pieces of roof (eaves) “gutter” or rain-trough, a couple of pieces of pine, a handle, some hinges and miscellaneous screws. Mine holds masts with 4 inch wide spreaders as well as the rolled up sails. Depending on the length of the masts you can build to suit and just might need an additional hinge or two. Kind of like carrying a fishing pole case. (Which, by the way works - but is kind of spendy).

That’s about it for traveling with a multi.

[:-mischievous] We now return you to your regularly scheduled broadcast. [;)]

Dick Lemke
F-48 #US-06
MultiONE #US-06
Class 3 Landyacht #US-196
Minnesota, USA

44

I was just inquiring for we are going on a sea trip to Tasmania to compete in our Australian Nats in 06. And we will be putting the car on the ship.So having the right layout for the(2) boats(in the car) is at a premium.We will be in a Landrover Discovery. Anyone got any ideas on this???

45

Steve -

might want to look at a possible set of straps suspended from inside car going across the rear. Something that you can place the hulls on and they are suspended in the air. If you can remove rudder and keel - so much the better.

I used seatbelt webbing and screws that hold trim to top of window in my old van. Just screw through the seatbelt webbing - leave enough to hang, and fasten to trim screws on other side of vehicle. If you have a series of hulls, you can make two wooden (or aluminum) rods with end hooks. Then make suspended belt hangers and fasten to wood for each individual hull. A very light bungee across top of each hull to prevent from up/down movement. Will post a sketch.

Dick Lemke
F-48 #US-06
MultiONE #US-06
Class 3 Landyacht #US-196
Minnesota, USA

46

Dick, I can see what your talking about but I’m loathed to put too much in the cabin because of an accident or if we are in an accident . These things will come back to haunt us and we will come back to haunt the rest of you’se. There is the prob that the landrover has things over the windscreen that will preclude it , nevertheless it will fit some cars/vans.

On another subject.Do the Americans still use Arm winches and are they prevalent. We don’t see too many in Australia. Now the good thing I see with them is the “edging” they will do in adjusting the sails when the boat is close hauled.

47

some IOM’s also use digital servos as arm winch…

-Wis (aka Laurent)

<font size=“1”>_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _</font id=“size1”>

Seawind
MicroMagic #JPN 01
<font color=“red”>------------------
<font size=“1”>Wis’ Web Wasted Site
</font id=“size1”> ------------------</font id=“red”>

48

Yeah - I guess you are right. Best not to have suspended lead in the back of the car during emergency stops.

Mine (described) was in the back of a full size van and was a good distance behind the driver. Would probably hit the floor before me in a panic stop, but also would have scared the heck out of me if they did let go. Keep in mind, my monohulls are all in the 7-8 lb. range, and the big multis will be under 5 lbs. Not the heavy duty full keeled version of the cup boats by any means.

Dick Lemke
F-48 #US-06
MultiONE #US-06
Class 3 Landyacht #US-196
Minnesota, USA

49

Nice red boat Wis, what class is it? And is that white grass around your pond?

Hello Gale. I had the pleasure of sailing a couple of Odoms at the San Francisco Model Yacht Club in 2000. I really liked them with the mast headed jibs. Yes I’m familiar with the Hitech winch but I was perhaps still hoping that those drone winches were still available from I think Dumas? I know in the earlier days these winches had a bit of grunt to them.

In your post are you refering to the step-down winch drum that pulls the cord in slower when close hauled?

50

The arm winch you are talking about is the old Probar and the even older Dumas Probar “bang bang” winch. And the answer is that no, these winches are not in use anymore. Technology has moved on.

Unfortunately also, the winch manufactuer Don Prough died a few years back.

51

It looks like Tower Hobbies may still have a few Dumas Probar winches in stock.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE529&P=7

Scott

52

I am relaunching a new and improved ProBar sailwinch.
It will be based off of the Probar Deluxe fully proportional sailwinch.
The vintage analog motor controller will be updated to a fully programmable digital controller with field upgradable firmware. It can use up 28 volts input and has a built-in BEC, regulating voltage to the receiver down to 5volts.
The bearings will be upgraded to hybrid ceramic/stainless steel bearings and the secondary gear will be upgraded to a fully supported bearing shaft, for less friction. The winch chassis will be upgraded to a one-piece aluminum frame for more rigidity. The plastic gears will be upgraded to stainless steel gears. The torque and pulling power will be increased to 4,500sq.in. of sail surface area, for the heavy-duty 4.5 model. It can be used in the 1/16th scale J-Boats. The 1.5 model winch will be suitable for sailboats with less than 1,500 sq. in. of sail surface area.
I am now creating a 3-D CAD drawing of the sailwinch and will run all of the software calculations to quantify the torque and nominal foot pounds of pulling power.
The new sailwinch will be ready to ship by spring of 2013.

Kind regards,
Giovanni

53

You could run full sized J-Class with that puppy :stuck_out_tongue:

54

What are your thoughts/target for pricing. Would be too bad to go down this road, if pricing puts you out of too many classes - or are you anticipating a limited audience for the products?

Dick

55

MSRP should be around $200-275.00. This includes an aluminum output hub for attaching the double arm.
We are sourcing out a brushless motor and controller. This combination may be used for the more powerfull sailwinch model.
This winch will have the build quality of a Swiss watch and should last for many years.

56

What are the full specifications ?
What warranty and maintenance is offered and for how long, since it is said that will last for years ?
Thanks
ClaudioD

PS : BTW, the aluminum gears will suffer backslash wear and the life duration will shorten !

57

Claudio,
We are planning to use stainless steel gears. Not aluminum gears. Typo has been corrected.
Full specifications will be calculated using a software program and will be published at a later date.
Warranty is for 12 months.

58

Thanks a lot for answering !
BTW where are you sitting ?
ClaudioD

59

Your are welcome.
We are in Alameda, California.
My shop is next to the San Francisco Bay.
BTW. I am a French movie fan.
I saw this last night.

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