A way to fix the top lift tangling in the spreaders is to tie small length of elastic band to end of the boom at same fixing point as topping lift & then tie other end of elastic off 3-4 cms up the topping lift line (with some tension in the elastic) … you will never have another tangle again.
Another fix is a loop of line thru jib head eyelet to hold the topping lift against the top end of jib leach.
In some cases it is also practical to connect the topping lift from jib clew to jib head (instead of jib halyard attachment point), that way it always moves with the jib
Thanks for the ideas, I have the loop at the top end of jib and still get things tangled in a jibe. Not the best excuse but sometimes there is no
other alternative.
Back to rigging ideas, has anyone tried the “Kiwi parts” from Brighton Boat works? They look interesting.
I am now entering into the world of swing rig RG65’s and there will be a bit of a learning curve.
Being so busy these days with work making medical device parts and little time to build on my own
I have splashed out on a new boat.
Here is a clue.
Was playing around with some Graupner bits today and came up with this arrangement for a self adjusting Cunningham.
It gives me about 1/8th. inch of slack with the sails full out. It’s easy to adjust, just slip the C shaped Graupner thingy
on the boom back to tighten it, and forward to loosen it.
I did allot of testing with this over the summer,it dose work fine, but only tried on A Riggs.
Kurt
Did some tuning on my old blue splash last summer.
Here is is an attempt at a video ( holding an iPad in one hand).
I still like this old design and think I can eek more out of her.
Hi,
I also have some of Brian’s sails 
I’ve built my own twice now (for other yachts) and every time I compare them to his I hang my head in shame
Is the rotating pivot you’ve used at the top a standard method for sails with the double eyelets? I had no clue what to do so I rigged them up to a swivel off the backstay.
It’s functional but pretty difficult to rig.
I don’t think it’s standard for RG’s but normal IOM.
I was having trouble with the sail shape at the point where the stays attach to the mast upwards.
Moving the stay attachment to the front of the mast allowed the sail to pivot better.
The pivot itself would work better if I could bend that wire but it hard steal and the attached in
such a way not removable.
I likeusing string loops to tie the sails to the mast. but I also leave about 2-3 mm gap between the luff of the main and the mast. this allows the sail to flop over from one side to the next in really light air.
boat looks good on the water… a nice moderately skinny boat that goes well in a breeze as well.
Some pictures of the servo cassette and how it mounts to plate on keel trunk.
Two pins made of brass tube and one screw.
the RX has been potted with West Systems epoxy tho this hull has never had
issues with taking on water.
the servo plate is made of E-glass with servos mounted very tightly so there
is no slop
Yes, the string loops took me 2 or 3 attempts to get the gap and sail shape I was happy with.
love the servo mount…
No need to use spacers/gap if you to a small knot between sail and mast. See image.
It will take a breeze but it helps to enable for shifting the battery aft because it will nose dive.
I should note that my sail number is actually 63, the 163 on this boat is only there for when I put two boats
in letting a friend sail my other RG “Razor” so its easier to tell them apart
tarm… th only problem with the knot method is that you still have the potential to tie the loop too tight around the mast which could prevent the sail from rotating. i take a small block 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" of wood and cut a groove, leaving a couple mm remaining. slip the groove into the luff of the sail at the hole and then tie. Move wood block to nexct spot…repeat.
the gap created by the remaining wood is your space. Easy and repeatable and it still allows the main to move freely on the mast On my victoria and RG I use a carbon rod in the luff pocket of the main to prevent and sagging of the main or getting any puckers between the tie points…
[QUOTE=marcsmith;72851 On my victoria and RG I use a carbon rod in the luff pocket of the main to prevent and sagging of the main or getting any puckers between the tie points…[/QUOTE]
If I understand correctly you slide a small diameter rod into the luff pocket permanently?
While I have my rigs out, I took some pics of my backstay/outhaul arrangement for my “Razor” swing rig (Cat Sails and my own rig).
This idea I stole from the footy sailers,
The outhaul bowsie works as a slider on the backstay adjuster (jib is set up similarly) its quite simple but hard to explain so you may
have to zoom in on photos to see how it works.
MI6
yes the luff pocket has the carbon rod inside of it. I can remove it if I need to. its not glued in are anything. bu I usually just put a piece of tape over the bottom of the luff pocket so the rod doesn’t slip out
I have seen that method you pictured before. the only dilema with using that method is now when you adjust one setting it has the potential to cause the other setting to go out of adjustment.
when your back stay is snug the slide works. but if you back stay is loose, then the slider for your outhaul doesn’t do anything… and you’ve lost control over that aspect of your sail shape.
Thats true if it was a classic rig but this is a swing rig so if the backstay is loose it would slacken the whole jib.
There is always a need for some backstay tension. Tightening it more has no effect on the outhaul because of the loop above
the backstay bowsie , it does work perfectly and the same sort of arrangement on the jib and using the slider to adjust the
gap (see picture)makes rigging simpler and less weight . take a closer look at the pictures it might not be the same as you have seen before.