I really like performance boat but have to say not found of M class as I find most of them as lacking beauty in their design - obviously designed for performance and to get the most of the M rules I’m sure but there is nothing I like better than a performance boat with a bit of class and I like your new idea of cockpit - very modern and different from what we normally see on racing model boat…
Hi Celtic,
I appreciate that you share my point of view.
Yes an highly competitive boat Hull in the range 100/130cm length in terms of design with modern materials.
As you says we are since long used to see deck layout in the most simple expression like FLAT Table.
To see something different you need to go for kit ‘one-design’ models, like MM, Nirvana, Fairwind, Seawind, all far away, comparatively speaking, to be a fast racing hulls. The Sprinta from Ramoser is a modern and probably fast approach, although the deck layout is dated and the weight is 8kg with 85dm² of sail including a very efficient Genoa setting - (see videos on the web or the 43-900 tread in this forum).
When I think to modern design, I also think about Wally Yachts, Southern Wind Yachts, or designers like Farr or Finot .
So why not try a nice looking solution ?
e.g. combining a good racing hull and a good deck layout as many can see in the harbors or in the Magazine like Yachting World, etc.
Of course a structured deck layout need some extra work compared to a Flat Table, but at the should pay for a Real nice looking boat.
Pages for inspirations :
http://www.southernwindshipyard.com/scheda.php?pagina=yachts&yacht=12001&gallery=photo
http://www.charterworld.com/index.html?sub=yacht-charter&charter=sailing-yacht-leopard-1369
http://www.wally.com/sail/
http://www.sprinta-sport.de/fotos/Sprinta-RC/Galerie/page_01.htm
I should start making a mock-up with foam after the lamination with the female deck mold !
Cheers
ClaudioD
It could be the influence of the very nice color scheme, but I like a lot your new design Claudio. It says modern, stylish and… fast!
I can see the benifit for pure racer to have an easy to built unclutter flat deck. But for the rest of us how prefer some degree of realness, you are kinda making the bridge between both world. Will you be able to keep the wood cockpit?
Hi Sylvain,
indeed, the model can be personalized with various colors between the hull and hatch.
I’m not sure to keep the deck master made so far.
I shall build a new deck !
Meanwhile I made a foam prototype of new hatch !
Cheers
ClaudioD
Deck laminated with female mold and with 2 x 105 g/m² glass/epoxy
ClaudioD
Dear Claudio,
A little bit late, but I also prefer the short hatch. In my opinion (or appreciation) it makes the global design more sportive and the overall line more smooth from an esthetic point of view.
Frederic
Hi Frederic,
I’m still turning around in my head the new deck design, this is my last thought ! Colors can be changed of course !
The idea is taken from a Southern Wind design and simplified for the purpose.
If you or others have others ideas, I will be glad to consider it !
The deck is de-molded and the weight is higher then expected by 40g.
I let the lamination rest for some days before bonding the stripe along the joint line.
It toke 200 pictures before seeing the hull and deck together !!
Cheers
ClaudioD
your rendering looks fantastic Claudio ! the original deck is not looking too bad either, though I prefer the new one, it gives a nice look to the boat. This is a great milestone 200 pictures at the meeting of the deck and hull !
Have to say for us who follow your progress the pictures and your comments make it so easy to follow so your hard work is really appreciated.
Merci beaucoup
Gilbert
Merci Gilbert !
based on previous experience, I redrawn the hatch , here the new cuts for the a new one !
The corners will of rounded compared to the sketch
Cheers
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio -
what are your thoughts regarding a 2 meter version of the boat using the basics of your design ? Just wondering. Thanks, Dick
Dear Dick,
interesting for those who like big boats !
The 123 will be 17kg of which, some 12kg could go in the bulb and 1.95m² for the sail area ! Remain some doubts about the draft that linearly could be as long as 95cm.
Cheers
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio, I’ve just got back home following 3 weeks away and as always, impressed with your progress 
I’m sorry to see the one piece deck did not work out as expected & I take the blame for suggesting this to you earlier on, but I wonder in this case if using tape was the wrong solution for a female mould ?
I like your new cabin as it has very distinctive that sets it apart from traditional design.
Cheers Alan
Hi Alan,
very nice to see you after longtime.
Don’t be sorry, because it was also my intention to get a monolithic deck piece.
As usual “why to make it simple if you can complicate it” my friend Murphy !!!
Is correct, why to stick to old fashioned forms and shapes !
A boat model shall be nice to see when it is in the water, but also when it is out of the water, that btw is most of the time !!
The new cabin is progressing, it is not my original idea, but something I borrowed from real Maxi Yachts, see below …
Any how I will continue with the 123 monolithic deck design in order to progress the construction.
In parallel I will make a new flush deck master from bow to stern.
Cheers
Claudio
some more work today after watching the ACWS from Venice !
Still try to find the better hatch shape to reduce air drag !!! if any heheh
Bonding stripes to deck ongoing !
ClaudioD
Claudio,
As one of the primary design objectives is keeping weight to a minimum, I was wondering how much water the cockpit coaming element of the new deck hatch could hold. It’s in all probability relatively insignificant but if not would it be worth considering the introduction of drainage channels? These wouldn’t necessarily involve additional material (& hence weight) but perhaps where the coaming run starts at the aft end of the ‘cabin top’ a small gap could be left between the elements to allow easier water drainage?
As I noted earlier, in all probability it just isn’t really worth the effort and I’m just looking at the design from a ‘big boat’ mindset and thinking about the need to clear any standing water from the deck as quickly as possible.
Either way, I like the new design with definite hints of superyacht detailing. This is looking more and more likely to be my next build!!
Many congratulations on the progress,
Regards,
Row
Hi twister, I’ll give my 2 cent view on this - a lot of IOM designs including the one I race have a raised bulkhead and recessed deck from the mast to aft and like the big boat I sail one (corby 25) which has an open back the water comes in and out quickly. I can see what you’re saying on bigger boats but I think in this case that as the boat moves on the waves and heels with the wind that water will drain towards the back quite quickly - I would think.
and yes I share your view this new cockpit gives real class to this boat !!!
Atb,
Gilbert
Hi Row and Gilbert,
a couples of drawings may be better that a long explanation !
In the 123 design the choice for the hull/deck was dictated by the volume reduction along the shear line and by the presence of water turbulences created at that level once the heel reach more then 30°.
The hatch was introduced to facilitate the entrance to the internal space (battery and servo) and reducing the risk of water penetration.
The new hatch is instead suggested by the aesthetic point of view only, while the cockpit is also reduced in surface as such that water spill volume will be much lesser that with the original option. The sloped floor will facilitate the drain as usual.
The only worry I have is that the aesthetic research for the hatch will cost some 30/35g extra weight !
Cheers
ClaudioD
To join the deck instead of a long ribbon I decided to use short wedges bonded with cyanolite and spaced some 5/6cm each other.
These wedges shall resist the time the deck/hull final bond is obtained and shall be considered as an alignment aid only !
The pictures belows are just a simple trial to see if it work !
Interesting to note that the hull , when free, tends to get narrow if not supported and this is due to the wood stripes glued along the shear.
The counter part from the deck is more rigid and the wedges will ‘force’ the hull to regain the original form width and offering a flush joint. Obviously some mastic may be needed to have a very smooth surface.
ClaudioD
The time is arrived to start accessories construction.
The first in the row is the Fin Box.
Two options :
1 - with triplex plywood of 1.5mm covered with carbon fiber , see pictures below.
2 - wrapping fiberglass around the Fin.
The second solution is of course much lighter, but requires particular mounting features for the servo.
Before going any further with the hull, I decided to check the displacement.
The hull is filled up with water using a bottle weighted on the balance until the design displacement is reached. LWL marks are reported in the hull, in the front is the shadow “0” and at the stern is the rudder stock hole. The real LWL limit is positioned 1.2cm behind the rudder stock.
The pictures show that the limits at both ends are not reached with the design DSPL of 3673g of water.
The main reason for that is due to the manual volume calculations errors since between two shadows I assumed a straight line when in reality is a curve. Polygonal line against a curve.This is the case between shadow 9 and 10. I will prepare a sketch !
To reach the marks, I added some 180g of water.
The actual “internal” volume is 3853g.
The “external” volume need to be further added .
Why external “volume” ?
The hull is laminated onto a plug and the thickness of the skin contribute to increase the design volume.
I measured the skin thickness and found to be 0.55mm
The calculated wet surface is equal to 1558cm², therefore multiplying 1558cm² x 0.055cm = 85.69g
When using a female mold the external surface is the same as the mold and therefore no additional volume is obtained due to skin thickness.
Center line tracing with fin box, rudder stock and jib stays anchor rods positioning !
ClaudioD