at my HD it was in the section with the premium wood. hardwoods, oak, poplar, spuce, white pine. the furniture grade stuff
A quick pic of my nARROW build. In photo, I was checking to assure the swing rig would fit, and still have room below the jib for a raised deck. Also will build a second mast location for using a traditional rig. Boat is closer to camera, so it looks bigger than the DF65 - mast “IS” taller, but hull size is same length - 65 cm. I did use the DF65 keel and bulb (purchased as replacement) but might have to go with bigger bulb. This one weighs 535 gr. which is a tad light compared to Claudio’s weight schedule. Will have to wait and see.
Well … time to think about application of the exterior coat of WEST System epoxy. Still a few touch ups to graphics before the epoxy, but they will be done before epoxy is applied. Starting to look like an RG65!! 
looks sharp.
you get it done just in time before the water gets hard…
Just over 10 years ago, I had the misfortune to suffer a “light” stroke. The after effects have made using fine motor skills in my left hand a bit difficult, especially when rigging the sailboats with the ultra thin line. I recalled using a nylon cleat on the luff of a jib on the NACRA catamarans that held a line after zipping up the luff onto the jib luff wire. I believe some may also be found on big boat mainsail leeches for adjusting and cleating leech lines. I’ve picked up a couple from a local sailmaker and will give them a try for lines that need adjustments but whose knots and tying are almost impossible. Will start out trying them on my RG65 boats - the custom one and also the Dragon Force 65.
If I run into issues, I suppose I can claim protection under the ADA (Americans Disabled Act). We’ll see.
Basically, after attaching with screws to the hull, (nylon - can’t use glue) they line for adjustment enters from the front of the cleat. It routes aft and on top of the cleat is a "“V” notch into which you can jam the line to hold the line adjustment in position. Pull down slightly and the line is released. If you have thin line, a plastic bead (or beads) can be tied along thee line and secured with CA glue. This will allow a step-by-step method for adjusting a line and having it stay when it is cleated. You could also use a very small diameter carbon tube. Just notch one end with a “V” groove, and glue the tube to the deck. Run your line in from the front, and then pull up to wedge it into the "V Slot Again, if you are using some thin line that doesn’t seem to hold because the “V” notch isn’t thin enough to cleat the line, try adding a couple of plastic beads to along the length of the line. Keep in mind the plastic beads have to be small enough to fit through the front of the notched tube or you won’t be able to un-cleat and ease the line. The attached photos are taken with 80 lb. test woven fishing Dacron. Once you study the photos, the concept becomes a bit more clear. The end of the line with the knot is the biter end and is where you grab, pull and cleat.
Post any questions. My first use will be to the jib-to-deck line so I can adjust how high (or low) the jib boom will be to the deck.
Well, disaster (of sorts) struck. Some time back, I tried to coat my nARROW balsa strip hull with epoxy, and ran into a lot of fish-eyes in the epoxy coats. Discussion with both WEST System tech support and also 3M Customer Service revealed a possible surface contamination caused by the sterate added to the sandpaper to reduce clogging and provide longer life of the paper. Following suggestions, an alcohol wipe down, re-sanding with non-sterate added sandpaper, and even scraping with metal and glass all resulted in an ugly finish. Thus - I have decided to abandon the stained wood grain and simply skim coat the hull and paint it. This will add a bit of weight to the hull which currently weighs only 100 grams, but I can’t stand the sight or feel of the current exterior hull finish. Maybe will give the “eye candy” look to another future build. In the meantime, will use some ultralight filler and after sanding and priming will give the hull a coat of paint. Kind of irritated, as I had put in a lot of work to keep weight low, plus time trying to fix the sterate contamination issue. Once I feel I like the look, my view will change. The hull will never know how close it came to wood recycle bin!
Do not worry, at the begin it happen to me a couple of times with class M. My first STUDIO-1 (full wood) came out with 720g out of 4500g above the design limit. Actually is standing on top of one of the cabinets. 4 months of work !!!
Thanks Claudio - I feel a little better knowing even the “Master” has one that didn’t turn out as envisioned. 
I think my build is going so slowly because I’m avoiding the mold/cloth layups in case it goes wrong. So I start on the next thing that doesnt require any of that …
Try doing a few test layups to learn.
Use epoxy as it is easier to mix correctly and doesn’t smell.
Take a block of wood, lay on wax paper and lay cloth over. Mix up a small amount of epoxy and use a “flux brush” - here in US, they are rolled metal tube handle, flattened end to retain bristles. “Stipple” resin into cloth weave and leave overnight (brush is disposable). Check when cure (24 hours) and then try and make a shape our of wood and do the same thing to get an idea of how the cloth will lay against the wood shape. Try a piece of wood covered by plastic packing tape and layup cloth over it. After cure see if you can remove it. Try covering an old plastic bottle to see how the cloth lays up.
All of these are ways to get familiar with mixing, applying epoxy and learning how to handle the cloth. May want some latex gloves and a can of acetone or alcohol to both thin the resin, and to clean up drips or smears on your arms.
Buy one yard of 2 oz. cloth (maximum of 4 oz). It will give you enough to practice with. DON’T buy automotive repair packs - that cloth is too heavy (usually 8 or 9 oz.) Stay with lighter cloth as that is what you will use, it isn’t expensive for a yard or meter, and you will be surprised at how soon you will feel like working with glass and epoxy.
I was lucky and had one of the Gougeon brothers (WEST System Epoxy) help walk me through it first time. Does a lot for your confidence if one of your local builders will spend an hour or so helping for first time. At age of 17, my son was working in a boat shop selling epoxy and answering questions. At 18 he shaped and laid up his own sailboard. It is simply a hand skill easy to learn and helpful in the future. Good luck
Dick
Well, after the mess I had with the application of epoxy (fish-eyes and places where epoxy pulled back from surface where brushed) I decided to proceed by adding a coat of filler. This corrected the problems, and I will need to give it one more very thin skim coat and sand using a finer grit paper. The blue visible is masking tape from waterline down to keep filler above waterline. I won’t be able to have the clear finished strips showing on the top of the hull, but some fine sandpaper, then primer and paint makes me feel better and keeps me from “binning” the hull.
I had weighed the hull before the repair process started and it weighed 100 grams (no deck or transom - just the hull) and today, with the masking tape still on the weight had only gone up to 108 grams. I think I can live with the additional weight, and will now feel like continuing with the project. Before the filler experiment, I was really disappointed and didn’t want to work on it - moving it from one place to another. So - now with a good feeling, I can proceed to amend my graphics for the hull and get the transom in place and then the fore-deck.
Photo is of hull with first coat of filler in place, and sanded with some rough grit paper. Just applied the second (skim) coat and waiting for it to dry. The black hull in background is one half of my 65 cm catamaran. Waiting for some work to seal up all holes and points of leaks.
Finally filled , sanded and primed the hull to repair the issues of the epoxy coating (see earlier post). Also started to begin fabrication of fore deck. Claudio’s design called for a peaked fore deck, but I wanted to use a flat strip to help me locate and drill for mast positions. I want to install both a mast tube for swing rig, and also one for traditional rig. Having a relatively flat surface will make location and drilling for tube much easier. I have also settled on the HiTec HS-645-MG arm winch for the boat. I have used these in four previous JIF65 builds with good performance results. Hopefully I can plan the sheeting system so a lot of changes won’t be required when switching from a swing rig to a traditional rig.
Prototype of fore deck completed and set in approximate location. Also cleaned up epoxy drips in keel opening and fit keel/bulb in place. Now need to begin layout locations for radio gear, plus fit mast tubes through fore deck - one for swing rig, one for traditional rig.
Grabbed this photo of hull, with temporary keel and fore deck in place. Starting to look like a “skinny” boat !
Had a bit of time left over after helping daughter prepare her trailer for season’s horse shows, so decided to clamp on a strip running along exterior of gunwales following sheer line of hull. Not sure how far I want it to stick out away from the hull, but thought it might give a fractional bit of forward motion instead of slipping sideways when heeled over. A hull this narrow heels quickly so even a fraction of drive forward might be helpful.
Impossible to reply to the “sponi” private message, better to use my name ‘claudio’ here near the avatar