Don’t worry Claudio,do not want to make you work if not necessary. More shadows are better support, true, so today I will get the materials I need to add the 4 missing supports… Moving them on the base is easy.
Regarding the 3mm planking, do not worry either: this is for a mold, nod the actual boat! In the end, I use 3mm, but as my planking is fast&dirty, I sand a lot away afterwards to get the correct shape. So I’ll use the plans you alredy provided. No worries again.
Thanks!
Tom I was just starting to see what I can do and found that the solution exist already since it is sufficient to ignore the shadows 9, 7, 5, 3, and 1 Instead of 65mm, you use 130mm just the double. You have the choice also to place the shadow 0 at 127mm or 130mm, instead of 650mm you will get 653 LOA with the bumper.
Notice that also with 3mm thick stripes you will suffer from flexing with 130mm gap.
You risk to get a hull composed of bump and hollow invisible with naked eyes before painting and counter light.
Cheers Claudio
Hahaha, you are absolutely right!!! Feel stupid not having noticed that myself…
Thanks for confirming this Claudio. I just wanted to be sure there were no major changes before proceeding with the cutting of the templates.
Regards, Dick
PS - I forwarded your original emails (.RAR files) to Tamstro this morning. He can download “7-Zip File Manager” software to open and print to PDF.
Hi Claudio:
I found a local company that does laser cutting, and I would like to use their service for the shadows. But for this I would need your plans in a vector-format file. Can you provide this for the n-Arrow 5? If not, I understand…
Thanks!
PD: already working in adding supports to the jig!
thomas sent a dwg cant attach it here for some reason.
Craig
Craig -
Valid file extensions for this site: bmp doc gif jpe jpeg jpg pdf png psd txt zip
Dick
Thank you craig! (you can always zip the file before attaching here)
I Tom, in principle the PDF is a vector format. It is also derived from a .CDR of CorelDraw.
Other Formats are AI and EPS but I’m not sure they respect the original dimensions.
You should ask your company if they can work already with PDF or CDR at first. AI and EPS format are not accepted in this forum !
Cheers
ClaudioD
Claudio: I already got almost everything sorted out.
Craig: the file you sent me, are those the actual full-size shadows or are they planking-ready (2mm less)?
Thanks
I found a bit of time tonight, and took the opportunity to begin to cut the station templates and press fit them (temporarily) to the building board. You don’t realize how narrow the hull will be until you start seeing it in 3D with station templates on the building board. I am still thinking of using the chines, but will reserve the final option until I see all the templates on the board. I can always cut out a notch in each template to proceed with the chines (as stringers) - or leave the templates as originally cut out. Still have a few more to go, but broke my 1/8" bandsaw blade and shifted cutting to my scroll saw. Cutting takes longer and the blade on the scroll saw wants to “wander”. I decided to cut larger and then sand back to the lines.
Here is current progress so far. Hope wife doesn’t find it until I get the bathroom done. Ha Ha 
Dick,
Happy to see the start !
Difficult to hide this long mounting board ! heheh
Being narrow for sure, here comparing shadows of my Blue Dragon
Claudio
Actually, Claudio - anything above her is pretty “secure” as she doesn’t like heights, and won’t go above 3 steps of a ladder. I should be good if placed higher up. :rolleyes: 
Until you see plans next to each other, a wider hull looks OK until a narrow one is placed nearby. I still have my original JIF65 boat (2007) which is 6-3/4 inches at widest point [ 17.16 cm ] and sails pretty well in heavy wind. It hasn’t demonstrated any nose-dive tendencies but being wide with a v-bottom it does “slap” the water when coming off a wave. Will be fun to see and compare the two.
Hope the store stocks my bandsaw blade size - otherwise it will be a special order. I can still use the scroll saw - but it is a slower process - but only have 7-8 more templates to go.
Dick
Local friend of mine helped with laser cutting plans… “I had some free time so I also did these” he said…
So here they are… (I didn’t know he is so skilled!)
Update: all section templates have been cut out and I put them in their order on the building board. They have not been pressed down into the bottom of the location slots yet and are only aligned by the vertical line in the center of each template. I did hold a very small strip of wood up to their center-line and am very pleased by the shape of the hull that Claudio has designed. Based on past life experience, I have no trouble reading and understanding line drawings - and can visualize the finished project - but yet, holding the wood strip to various locations and bending it I was seeing Claudio’s idea start to come to life.
I did cut station template zero, but not much there, and may rethink it and it’s location and maybe just make a 1/4" thick balsa station which will become a part of the boat and where the bumper will attach. Looking at the hull design, I do believe I will build in the chine, and also will use a piece of nice wood to make the waterline stripe. The plan is to build the curved lower part of the hull using balsa strips, and then from waterline up (the flat, above water, sections) finish with some very thin wooden veneer. Because it will be wood, I want to have a clear finish and forgo most, if not all, painting.
Again, my most sincere thanks to Claudio for his willingness to take on this special project - and for sharing his designs with builders.
Hi Dick,
observing the shadows you cut, it appears to me that you have not cut away the 2mm stripes thickness !
BTW I sent each single shadow drawing in PDF to 1:1 scale ready for print where the cutting line of 2mm is marked. The grey area is what should be kept and white should be removed. See also n-ARROW5-Sh.zip
If you take the shadow 6 the max width should be 83mm before planking and 87mm after, see attachment
If it is difficult to insert the narrow shadow 0 then is a good idea to shape a balsa bloc from 1 to 0. This is what I generally do also for bigger models.
Cheers
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio,
I like most of the lines of the nArrow5, but I feel the forward sections are too narrow. My experience is with Marbleheads and the current trend in both Ms and IOMs is for a more tubular body. The Britpop IOM has pretty robust forward sections and it is a very powerful boat in moderate conditions and good overall.
May I suggest a version 6 where the area above the chine straightens vertical around midships and flairs outward between sections 3 and 2. Also, the forward sections might be a bit larger so the boat is less pointy. Brad Gibson’s new RG has the first couple of sections rise above the rest of the shear, to help control diving.
Of course you don’t have to accept my suggestions, but I just felt I should throw in my two bits to help make this a super boat.
Niel
Thank you, for the suggestions, but nothing can be done to fight against ‘nose down’ within the Rules !
It was suggested in the sixties that a ‘blunt’ nose would helped to create a ‘bow divergent wave’ to reduce water pressure in the first 10-20cm of the hull length and by consequence reducing the friction coefficient. Afterward it was found not so efficient and dropped. See Maxi Yachts !
Winning races are direct function of Sails quality & tuning and good fingers ! Hull shapes are under evaluation, one step at the time !
I’m not Brad Gibson !
ClaudioD
@Niel1055: Hi Niel Part of this design has been going forward based on my request - and working from Claudio’s original Esterel plans. When I started, I asked about an RG65 that would have a hull shape similar to one of the hulls of an “A Class” catamaran… flatter underwater sections, very little rocker, extremely narrow (maybe to the point of needing outriggers to hold shrouds, and (probably) a very deep, thin keel. After going back and forth, Claudio presented some things and ideas I didn’t think of, and after a lot of correspondence and exchange of thoughts, this narrow version is the outcome. I think, if you look for the Mark Dick’s design “SLIVER” you may see some similarities, although we added the chine rail, and I still may include a chine along the waterline. (Claudio isn’t too sure about the benefit of that.) [b]
@Claudio[/b]: Sent you an email about template sizes.
Dick
ADDED PHOTO - EDIT: When we started, the original hull plan something like this was original request. This happens to be one hull of my 65M Class catamaran. While it’s 65cm long, it was too difficult to get the volume and interior room to house electronics - although a dagger board with bulb would have been possible for righting moment, I think.
@Dick
you got my reply.
@Niel
The n/Arrow5 fender is 5mm x 7.5mm.
Rules = 5mm x 3mm min.
A couple of pictures of a yacht top winner like Alfa Romeo.
ClaudioD