I’ve built 7 canting keel boats in the last ten years four in the last year of which three of those were builtin the last two months. All use “pre-creeped” Spectra and work perfectly. Using the line allows greater cant angle but has to be “managed” especially when using a drum winch. Springs MUST be located on each side of the drum so that sudden rotational changes under load don’t cause the line to pop off the drum.
Using ball bearing blocks is important if you’re operating near the top end of the power of your winch.If you use silicone coated pre creeped Spectra you can eliminate the block closest to the hull adding a couple of degrees of cant angle; I use a rotating delrin drum to save room in place of the block.
just a small up date dew to the fact that im about to go and cut my boat in half with a 9 inch angle grinder after i went for a sail today with my keel fixed central and proceded to grab the keel the keel and canting mecknisin parted from the hull and keel almost punched through the deck so its back to the drawing boards might put it on the back burner for a while and make a fotty then a 1m then i might use the 1m as an f100 hull and make that canting/tf or liftiable canard. ill keep you guys posted it things are going my way ah well i guess its time to get back im to max surf
Never hold your farts in.
They travel up your spine, into your brain,
and that’s where sh*+y ideas come from.
Sorry to hear about your structural failure. What was the failure mode? Did the canting keel mechanism delaminate from the inside of the hull or was it more serious than that? Were you sailing at the time? Did you hit something? did you take on any water?
While any structural failure is frustrating and a serious setback, it seems a bit extreme to be cutting up your boat over it. sounds like you and your boat need a cooling off period before you can give there the TLC she needs to get her back on the water…
Will yes the canting keel mechanism did delaminate from the inside of the hull and it did happen while sailing well most of the damage was done but i finished it off by picking the yacht up by the fin and the ssheets were on and BANG keel went throug deck as to say.
1 boat is not being cut up atm changed my mind
2 dont like the design its does not have enough beam to get suficiant cant
3 did not comply to any rule
4 didnt like my canting arangement might go to a geard one with a quadrant
5 didnt have any one to race against
6 i want to make a international one metre
7 after the i1m it racing i might make a f100 with cktf and maby a kite just maby it will be an ace though the syemetric rc kites look crap in my humble oppinion
any way i have better go check on how my expandeble foam is going for my one metre plug is going it has brobiable filled the whole gerage up with solid foam:P
Never hold your farts in.
They travel up your spine, into your brain,
and that’s where sh*+y ideas come from.
You may want to pick up April Sailing World. Cover (Fill Tilt Maxis). The wider boats did not work well because the keel comes out of the water at the hull. The narrower boats work better. The front cover shows an Open 60 with the top part of the keel exposed and making a lot of disturbance 6-10 ’ from hull. " By contrast, designs for fully crewed CBTF boats are narrower, deeper shapes that keep the foils better immersed and sail upwind more easily."
thanks for the inforation might have to check that one out i can understand that a fat hull will be slow but my curant shape idoes not have enought beam to get 55 of cant i can only get 35 and at 35 it is hardly worth having dew to the fact that the weight of the extra winck weighs more then the amount of lead i can take of the bottem thus bringing my sail aria down which is going to make me even slower
Never hold your farts in.
They travel up your spine, into your brain,
and that’s where sh*+y ideas come from.
You say that you are designing a 1 metre is this going to be a canting keel boat or a IOM. Would be great if you get in and build a F100 as it then we can compare some notes and John B is looking to share some info as well and develop his when he get sit in the water. So look forward to seeing what you come up with.
i am cruanatly desiging a iom but depending on how the hull looks tests as a 1 a new hull might be built of the plug/ mould which will be an f100 cktf or i might design a new hull see how things turn out and me weight estimationg for my f100 turn out as to weither or not the hull will work
Never hold your farts in.
They travel up your spine, into your brain,
and that’s where sh*+y ideas come from.
I was just reading back on this one and read Hoj’s comment about wider boats no been any good compared to the narrow boats and using the open 60 as an example.
The open 60 is not a good example to use as it is at the extreme end of the scale of yacht design in that yes it does have a cnating keel which swings to 45 degrees and they also have water ballast for fore and aft trim. But they still have to meet a 10 degree static heel test so that is why they are so wider to have intial stability but they are actuallt designed to sailing a certain angle to minimise wetted surface area. So efectively they are just cheating a rule but this is the only way to get a round it and it is the same for the mini6.5 class as they are very wide for such a small boat.
Yes a lot of the maxis have gone quite narrow but the displacements have also decreased and they are not using water ballast so they do not need to have flare to get the ballast as far to windward as possible.
I still believe a narrow boat and a wide boat are going to be pretty similar in speed as the displacements are going to be the same it is just going to be a distribution of the hull volume and rocker and so forth.
Any way my two cents any one else if very free to comment
The narrow boat will usualy be the best bet for a model ck boat, as it will, like a multihull, be able to easily exceed its hull speed without planeing, which is paticually hard to do with a model mono, or even a big boat upwind. The open 60’s and mini 6.5’s are just big surfboards, their main aim is to go downwind as fast as possible, they are pretty useless upwind. The excessive beam gives them loads of form stability, leverage for the water ballast and gives them a large area to plane on. Upwind they are sailed on their ear to try to get rid of all that wetted surface, but this makes the rig and foils inefficient (the twin rudders and assy dagger boards help to make up for this).
Incedently I have a mate who has just bought a mini, the rig on those things is just awsome. The mast lay on trestles next to that of a 30’ yachat and was longer, and we layed the big kite on the ground to have a look, that thing is MASSIVE, much, much bigger than the one on the 24’ sports boat I race on!