Latex for laminating moulding process

btw Claudio, I did not mention it earlier but, I spend extra time fairing the raw 3 mm planked balsa and then laminated the mould using the latex also … this saved a lot of elbow greese, sanding the laminated mould :rolleyes: I did a tracer paint coat on the mould just to get the best possible finish I could by hand, before laminataing the hull.

Cheers Alan

Alan was understood like that of course,
here the way I could consider the hull transfer to a dedicated support to initiate the latex coverage operation. The 120mm height could be also 300mm if preferred. Holes could also be made on the side of the support or whatever in order to insert clamps.

Simple and brillant at the same time ! thanks Claudio :slight_smile:

no separation films needed, only wax all over the support.
Forgot to tell that the support shall have the same shape of the deck, minus 1.5cm all around. I will redraw it !

That’is an example of support !!
Not easy anyhow.

Another reason I’m liking the RG65 class. The critical area for staples at the bow will have a flat spot for easier fastening. Any slop will be covered by the bumper.

Yeah, thats the tricky part of the whole procedure …
I’m not using staples on the bow, but clamps, it helps a little.

My building board is a little simpler than your’s Claudio, it’s just a 1x10x40 (inches) cheap pine board. I just attach the plug using 90degr. metal brackes with smal wood screws, the bow section is sliglty taperd. Something else that I found to help a little on the stern is to extend the hull/plug and round it off (like the stern on your RG65), it helps stretching the latex.

I wonder if you could wrap the latex sides around flexible fibre glass dowels. secure on one side of the support structure, stretch over hull and secure in hooks on other side.
This would eliminate staples, but may not address the bow tension appropriately.

Other fixing devices or better with clips where attach pulling elastics … for single person work

Hi Alan,

I have been looking for latex sheets here in France. People in baby shops looked at me eyes wide open as if I would do some S&M things with my baby !!! I think some of them called the police… As I’m living at the German border could you please tell me the name of the shop you went ? I could try at DM but never payed attention if they sell it. Thanks.

I saw that, on your blue lamination, you used a 245 gsm cf layer plus two 80 gsm gf layer… The only 245 gsm carbon isn’t sufficiant ? even less. As with glassfiber we can use 3x80 gsm = 240 gsm. Or only one layer may not be sufficiant ?


Hi Paulin,

I know those shops :lol: I try not to get in those embrassing positions of asking for Latex across the counter any more, so I order on-line and now only the postman gives me cheeky look :stuck_out_tongue:

try here: If you can, only use transparent version from 0,50 - 0,80 mm thickness, anything less shows fibre pattern if you use too much tension. Thicker the Latex = less tension required.

Only reason for using FBG layers was so that I could add color tint to the epoxy for good colour staturation of the cloth to get the right colour (did not want to use paint) and of course CF (black fibres) shows through the tinted epoxy, hence I used FBG (white fibre) to get the colour density in the epoxy “without” CF show through on the final finish.

Bottom line - CF layer was for strength & FBG was merely for colour laminate.

btw: I’m finding hull weight for AC 120’s not so important now as my constructions are 3-400 grams under weight, so I’m using 2 layers of 200-240 gsm CF laid at 90 degree’s makes for is far stronger & stiffer hull than using 4-5 layers of 80 gsm FBG …and less laminating work to boot.

Let us know how you progress on you latex project.

Cheers Alan

Thank you very much Alan !!!
And maybe some day you’ll tell me how to earn 300 to 400 grams on about 1800 overall… or have I to go to Heidelberg spying your work…


No worries mate :slight_smile: you are always welcome if you ever plan coming to Heidelberg… no secrets, just use lighter and stronger materails for hull fit-out [b]3mm carbon foam sandwich /b

Incredibly light and very strong construction.

Cheers Alan

Wonderfull !!!
If you weren’t married yet, I’d take my chance !
Very nice work.
Is CFS home made or does it comes from R&G ? I’ll have a look.
When I saw your set up, I felt like I have to try another hobby…


Home made ! right ?
Depron or Rohacell ?

Hi Paulin …you heartbreaker :slight_smile:

It’s a structural foam (called Rohacel I think?) compatible with types of glues & available in A4-A3 sheet sizes.

Easy to make using Perspex as release surface. Wet out CF, laid it out on peel-ply (to have good construction bonding surface later) lay foam in CF sandwich and position sheet of Perspex either side & clamp pressure between couple pieces of wood.

R&G have very interesting Honeycomb, lots of samples in their factory display room including beautiful made yacht hull, real tempted to try it, but dam expensive in comparison.

Cheers Alan