Well, it’s not a T-fiting for a swing rig… 
mast bearing… i ended up juts putting cotter pin the bottom of the mast. and letting it spin on the inside of the hull…i could not find any thing of my daughters that would work…
It looks like to got the idea, Marc- Just remember to put a metal piece for the pin to turn on, or you’ll end up with a hole in the hull :scared:
You gotta get out and look through some dumpsters, grocery/Dollar stores, and the recycling depot for Footy materials…
i used the rounded (fat) end of the cotter pin… and then a dab of CA on the skinny end which goes up inside the mast…to hold it in place…
You will probably still end up drilling a hole in the hull, or poking through, eventually. I’m using a little piece of brass or aluminum strip from my scrap metal collections box.
BTW- I find epoxy putty (it looks like a jelly roll, you cut some off & knead it to activate) very helpful for attaching things like cotter pins to mast tubes & boom ends. After activating the putty, just pack the tube end with it, and in about 30 minutes, it’s rock-hard so you can drill it for your cotter pin. It’s very light too. :graduate:
thx
I don’t think so, at least not in my life time…the fat end is pretty well rounded and we are not dealing with a lot of weight and stress on the hull from the mast…
if it does, the its a good reason to buy another boat and build a new one…
I always need a good excuse to buy a boat, and ahol eint he hull is a damn good one.
I just bought an odom (check went out today) so I need to sell one of my vics and come up with a good reason to buy another boat before the wife sees the check book…
Well done to all its a T piece but with a difference.
Brent gave me this idea and i just modified it with this neat bit of kit
using different Z wires allows you to move the sail plan easily
Rgds
AndyT
TomoHawk is that the same as “Miliput”?
Rgds
AndyT
I got my putty at the home improvement DIY store. It was of the brand name Locktite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/repairs.asp?qfid=8&Product=160
Milliput might do the job for you. [b]http://www.milliput.com/home.htm
[/b]Be aware that Milliput has different grades. I think you would be interested in Milliput Black. Also look for Wonderpoxy, and others. You might find it or other epoxy putties at the high street hardware store.
well i sailed my modified hoyt rig on my v12 today…
my hoyt fits the definition of a storm rig. it was needed as it was blowing 15-20. the soling and vic had fun.
I was impressed by the way it sailed seemed fairly balanced and well behaved…
I put all my rigs on the v-12 and sailed and the 32" rig was way to much. but this was more of a spring shake down than anything.
the bummer…as I was plugging in my 507 had forgotten to change the model on the dx. on my 507 I limit the throw of the sail winch…as soon as I plugged the battery in with the transmiter on I heard the servo make a godawful clicking noise. as the arm wedged it self against the hull of the boat…
so not even a chance to get the 507 (spliff) in the water and test it…Sigh…The hoyt was impressive and it may warrant a second look for a taller/wider sail plan…but for now i have a storm sail for orlando…
and a working v-12
Did you try sailing on both tacks? The one tack can have the sail bagging away from the mast like a bermuda rig and on the other tack, it’s bagging into the mast which is new (to someone using a hoyt rig.)
In the picture below, the boat is about parallel with the boom. The second photo shows a real boat.
Marc ~ I’m glad its not just me thats impressed ~ I know its a bit radical and other skippers tend to poo poo it but it works ~ I’m pleased you started with a small one and found it a sucess ~ this has spurned me on to consider a Hoty for the FootyCat but first have to get her finished with a set of Bi-Mc’s
Rgds
AndyT
It is an unconventional rig… but it worked really well I was suprised. with the sail attached to the back stay as well my trailing edge of the sail did not deform and bag out at all. this combined with the clean sail meant basicly a solid leading/trailing edge…Getting closer to a solid wing…migth have to investigate full battens
Tomo. I did sail on all points. when on a port tack (mast down wind of the sail) the mast did not interfere with the sail. I had enough offset that the sail would not come into contact with the mast…so I maintained a nice airfoil shape on both tacks. I’ll get the fan out tonight and take some pics of the fan blowing on the sail.
I have some drafting mylar which is heavy enough to not need a seam for the luff so I may re create my current setup with mylar as a storm rig. with even a cleaner leading edge.
I think I’ll try a second rig thats taller maybe 18" using ripstop or some light trispi
On an aerodynamic note…a friend is experimenting with endplates on his vic and odom… For those who don’t know… Wing endplates act as span increase aerodynamically. That is, in general terms, a wing with an endplate is equal to a wider wing with out one. So all those endplates on formula 1 downforce wings are there for a reason besides a spot for a sponsor to drop a decal. it helps create more lift…
so he and I were thinking…what if you slap a 2" wide strip of 1/64 balsa on the gaff and on the boom. giving you end plates on each end…Of course if you have the rig low enough to the boat the deck of the boat can be the “end plate”??? of course it begs the question. is the extra weight aloft worth the gains…
thoughts…
Mark, I wouldn’t bother with the deck end plate, but the plate aloft seems like a good idea. I would recommend that you temporarily attach some light thread telltales to the trailing edge of the sail to see how the air flows over the sail both with and without the end plate. It would be interesting to see if the end plate actually redirected the flow.
A fluid, as it passes over an airfoil, in this case air over a sail, will tend to flow over the surface diagonally. This is due in part to surface drag and that is why airplane wings have end plates and ridges on their wings, to redirect that flow and reduce stalling. Wether our sails are tall enough or present enough surface area to be subject to this deflection is not clear. So far, in my view, Footies don’t behave the way they are supposed to so I don’t know how many full size givens apply to them. Mark’s endplate might be an innovation, but then he raises the right question as to wether the weight aloft will be justified by improved performance.
When you say end plate, is it like the first picture or the second? The first is the F1 rear wing and the “plate” is both structural for support, and helps direct or straighten airflow. The second picture is an aviation winglet, which is there to reduce vortices, because air near the end of a wing tends to curl over the wing, decreasing lift and increasing drag.
I wonder if a fan can duplicate the winds a footy encounters. being the footy is so low to the ground we are getting a lot of turbulent air. and the constant pitching an yawing of the boat further disrupts that flow… where as with a car or a plane you get a much smoother consistent flow…
bringing some math into the mix. my sail is 260 tall my 300 wide. which gives me an aspect ratio of .866, or a really short stubby wing…
to calculate the effective aspect ratio
Effective Aspect Ratio (AR_effective) = Actual Aspect Ratio (AR_actual) * (1 + 1.9 * (endplate depth/span))
EAR= .866*(1+1.9*(25/260))
so my effective aspect ratio is now 1.02, essentially adding 50 mm to my rig height…from 260 up to 310mm now if I double my endplate to 50. my EAR is 1.18 or an increase from 260 up to 355, or 95mm taller…
I’m sure theirs a point of diminishing returns. especially when you are dealing with weight aloft…
tomo
and end plate and a winglet, i think, are one in the same. just on different structures. low aspect ratio wings really have some nasty tip vorticies and the end plate acts to help reduce this. a a high aspect ratio wing, the winglet serve the purpose. I guess an endplate could be constued as a http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/Wingletdetail.jpg/180px-Wingletdetail.jpg wingtip fence.
In either case the end result is the same in that it prevents the air from spilling over the end of the wing…Of course in nascar, formula 1 the end plate also act to ad in side force grip as well…look at the world of outlaw racing and their wings…http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/Wingletdetail.jpg/180px-Wingletdetail.jpg
Just to throw a wrench into the mix, I’ll add in putting a fence below the boom. :devil3: I don’t know if anyone knows what that is.
I’d like to see an endplate on the gaff spar/mast of the Hoyt rig!
I’ll have to see if I fab up something the key will be ensuring that its all 100% square…
i guess the other thing to consider is that will the end plate add as much weigh as extending the mast and sails. if thats the case, then its a wash, unless you are really increasing the efficiency of the wing…although a good way to get the 12" rig to “in theory” add sail area with out adding height…
I wonder, if you can use mylar or sail material for the endplate( saving weight) if you can get tight enough…i suppose…
WaltH got me to try some of these I made the winglets out of depron that were stuck to the top boom and projected both sides, I also did it for the bottom as well. on two rigs
The other idea that WaltH got me to try was the flipping winglet I got it to flip no problem but I cant really say if any of them had an advantage
Rgds
AndyT