sorry to open up this older posts, but I am confused with the drawings provided, and the final M outcome. You started with Azur, there was a series of Azur photos/drawings. It then looks like you actually built Azur 8 - but can you briefly tell me the differences between Azur 8 thru Azure 8c please" I can compere the basic dimensions of waterline length, beam, displacement, etc. But which was the final version that you completed please?
Is the drawing of AZUR 8c (the last one above) accurate enough to scale or are there some PDF drawings that haven’t been posted? I think I may try a build this winter - if all my other projects get completed quickly.
Hi Dick,
yes tyhjere are several lans each one representing a step forward .
The Azur 8 is just the first hull study, the Azur 8c is just the same as Arur 8b, except that in Azur 8c the curve of area is substituted by the shadows to scale 1:1
The zipped file in attachment include each single shadow drawing ready for print and cutout.
here the Azur 8b :
Before you finalize on the design to build, take a look at Frank Russell’s new free plan “Gothic” ( a stretched version of his Goth IOM) featuring the latest trends. Go to the link and scroll down to find Gothic.
Thanks Claudio - and you too John… I don’t follow the IOM class closely, so was not familiar with the “GOTHIC” design. What I am thinking of trying, is to do what I had commented to Claudio about… taking the templates, and building the hull but upside down (the hull being the deck and the deck being the hull bottom) - thereby having a somewhat flatter hull that would promote a possible plane in decent winds, some rounded chines where deck might meet the hull sides, and the rounded part of the hull becoming the deck - being able to shed water quickly. Of course the deck (now the hull) would have a bit of curve from side to side, but a lot less rocker than normally associated with a traditional keel. Basically following the concept of a Scow underwater look, but with a very rounded deck to reduce pitch-pole submergence, and of course narrower.
I think I found a recent M locally (Tony Johnson perhaps) so I can sail against a known performer. If it doesn’t work out, it won’t be a major loss - maybe just flip it over the correct way and fill some of the holes and add a few more.
I enjoy the “development” side of the classes that allow it - and may still give the “GOTHIC” a try if my wild idea fails.
I don’t think it will be necessary, as I can modify the hull templates after printing. Of course, I won’t have all the technical data, but that is some of the fun - building and seeing how well it sails … or doesn’t. :rolleyes:
If I run into some issues that don’t look right, I may ask for some help, but because I have several other projects I must finish (delayed because of building wooden kitchen components for youngest granddaughter - priorities!) it is still a “hoped for vision”. My wife will know I am up to no-good when she sees me bringing in a building board and heading to the basement.
The hull deck will resemble the published (rounded part) hull of AZUR and the hull of the new boat will resemble the curved deck of 1-2-3 with the deck to hull joint a much larger, rounded chine - or maybe an enlarged hull of an RG-65 (JIF) plan. I suppose I could make the hull bottom from two pieces of thin ply since it will remain rather flat. I expect high hull drag from the flatter hull, but a much stiffer hull that has great initial stability, allowing it to carry less weight - and with optimal sailing at a heeled angle.
Thanks for your efforts Claudio - I will work with those and see what I can come up with - it’s like the first time people see the “A” Class catamaran hulls … they think the boat is in the water upside down. I’m wondering about “theory” … “why build a hull that creates a deep hole in the water, then add lead to make the hull sink deeper into the water hole and then work hard to get the hull out of the hole and sail fast?” Something just doesn’t sound right.
Hi Babs,
Thank you for the interest you express about my Class M AZUR designs
The PDF Files for the Azur 8 are available in the post 5 and 42 as attachments.
Since you mention that the winds in your area are around 12-20kt, then I would suggest the AZUR-V with his Prismatic of 0.59 against the 0.57 of Azur-8.
See attachments below.- Unfortunately the shadows are not drawn for each one, but the PDF drawing is at scale 1:1
Any further requests could be considered !
Cheers
ClaudioD
Thanks for getting back so quickly and thanks for your advice. Id imagine Azure will be a very good boat upwind, the value of that depends on a zillion other things of course but it doesnt look like something onle to be used carefully on ponds in English parks and gardens, EDIT: removed portion of post. Im pulling all the boats plans I can get, that i think will suit me, planse are free or cheap, time isnt. So without having ever seen a marblhead in my life i think ill start Azure 8, reasons, I like the forward sections, consider the prismatic high enough to perform in a range of conditions.
Very keen on planking in cedar, slightly concerned how much weight over balsa can someone snart herehelp please.!!!
Claudio could you suggest a laminate for the hull and deck in all carbon? I was thinking of getting a really really light cloth like 25mg each side of 3 mm balsa or cedar.
Now Barbs is off to pourherself a goblet full of sherry, watch the late news, and take all sorts of benzos valium xaaxadasia all gods good gifts The booze didnt do much she whinges.
Hi again:
you can search on the web like this : http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-density-d_40.html
All Carbon, why not ! if you can afford it, but equivalent glass weight is OK and much cheaper and the strength is more then sufficient for our models
CD
I have just used carbon uni tows, laid at the station position, and then diagonally sheer to sheer, - added an enourmous amount of stiffness to my Gothic M done in 3mm balsa and glassed outside with 25gsm cloth. I didnt weight it before and after but given the amount of strength it induced its very weight efficient.
Hello to everyone and a happy new year.
I have a question concerning the AZUR Vb.
The position of the mast according to the sketch should be 674 from back till the mast. Are those measurements for a swing or a standard rig?
Thank you in advance
Hi
For Classic Rig .
Most depends on the set of sail and in particular the ratio between Main and Jib and by consequence the CE position.
Assume as ‘rule of thumb’ that the Center of Effort shall fall vertically at 90° to the LWL in the first quarter of the Fin Chord or little bit ahead for lighter winds.
For Swing Rig :
No exact data available yet but again practice suggest to put the rotating mast step further ahead of 674mm of about 50/60mm
ClaudioD
