Tom
If it is possible cut some negative luff curve in the jib. I did on mine and it made a world of difference.
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
tom
you did a great job.
they look fanastic. now youhave done it. why dont you tell us. i for one am going to try and make a set of IOM sails. I dont know where i heard it, but somebody told be just used tape. dont stitch? i think i want to use a glue of some type. and then sew it. both my iom sails are stiched. so i need some advice.
the second question is
the sail curve? , you panel up the sails. the top of each panel is curved. but the botoom of the next panel is curved. how do you match up the panels? this question goes out to those people who have design sails before. like peter , lester, and now tom. anybody else who make sails. give me information. i need it. just ask peter.
cougar
long live the cup
p.s. i am going to use mylar drafting film
Cougar
I’ve used double sided tape on my mylar sails(no stitching)with no problem. I use 3M carpet tape that I cut down to 1/4" wide. GBMY has 1/4"tape but check Canadian places first. I only curve the top of each panel. I’ll try and explain the way I tape but this is hard to do in print. On the bottom (straight side) of a panel put a strip of masking tape 1/4" in from the edge. Use a straight edge(ruler) to mke sure it’s straight. Now put a strip of double-sided tape up against the masking tape(it will be on the edge of the panel). Peel the backing off the DS tape and then put it back on leaving only about 1/16" of adhesive showing. The exposed adhesive should be against the masking tape. Now pick up the panel with the curved edge and carfully position the curved edge against the edge of the masking tape and on the exposed adhesive, don’t press it down to hard(only having 1/16" exposed allows repositioning). Start from one edge and work your way across the seam. It’s a little awkward because of the curve but it’s not a big curve. When you are satisfied with the seam(nice and smooth) remove the backing carefully so you don’t disturb the seam and press the seam together. That’s it! Simple EH!!
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
Cougar,
I have seen a lot of Mylar sails built with taped seams. They work quite nice. There are two methods to building panels sails that I have found. Using a computer program to design the panels then using a user defined approach to stick the panels together(Don’s post describes one). The other method is called broad seaming. Using a defined sail block the panels are taped together. I used the free computer program (sailcut) to define my panels. It was very difficult to tape the seams without any wrinkles. This is where I hope to improve over time. I am sure that Peter would help you cut your panels with his “laser beam”.
This thread has a lot of information about online links for more information on how to make your sails. Go back to the start and read the posts. Good Stuff. It is not cheap to build you own sails…at least for one set. If you want more information on broad seaming e-mail me and I will send you some of the information I have attained on that subject, including instructions to make your own broadseaming board or block.
Tom
Seawind #80
I have new Chuck Black sails and he does not sew just tape. I have made my own sails for 20 yrs. and only bought this set and the set that came with my Venom. I make the sails but in one piece.I have different sail blocks made up for different camber and also have computed what the gap should be. I cut a slit in the sail,where the normal panel would be( check the gap ) while on the block and have a piece of material 1/2" wide with seam tape and put this over the opening. Done. No cutting of seperate panels. My sails always looked great before I sewed them so I just quit sewing. Call Black to see which tape he uses. The one I get from North has always worked for me but he just sells me partially used rolls and I don’t know what they are. I have had tape from another sail loft that dried and came apart. I have 15 year old sails that are still together.
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>I cut a slit in the sail,where the normal panel would be( check the gap ) while on the block and have a piece of material 1/2" wide with seam tape and put this over the opening. Done. No cutting of seperate panels.
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
I considered doing it this way and using some kind of adhesive batten material to seam it. It would kill two birds with one stone. Has anyone tried this?
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
Hoj,
When you cut your one piece Sails, how near to the sail edges do you cut, for the “panels”?.
The sail does stay in one piece? you cut it and then tape up the cut.
Also, how do you finish off the ends of the cut?.
Do you punch a small hole in the cut end to stop the sail from tearing, or is it not required?.
<font color=“blue”>Do you tape both sides?</font id=“blue”>
<font color=“blue”>Edit</font id=“blue”>
John.
I leave as little as possilbe 1/8" at the edge. The 1/2" mat’l goes over the slit and has never given way. I only tape one side. I have accidently cut all the way and it didn’t make any difference. Just more prone to movement.The sail is taped to the block before cutting so it does not move much. I have put very light batten material over the gap also. Just used the same two siding tape.It worked well. Check your rules. These were made as an experiment on my S/B. 80" luff 1900 sq. in. I also made a 70" luff 1250sq.in. sail for my US-1M with a 2 1/2# bulb for 3mph and under. The mast was the Lone Star .505 with the .404 inside to extend it. No shrouds.Worked great other boats just sitting not moving at all while I lapped them. My sails are made from Long’s drug store X-mas wrapping paper. $3 enough for two sails. All kinds of colors. The silver I put Pop Tart labels on them and told them that was what it was made from. That is what the material looks like.
Hoj,
You use wrapping paper? is it water proof, or do you treat it with something.
Do you add strength at the Clews etc, I am amazed, never thought of using anything like paper!!, how long do your sails last for?.
For the Seams do you use the same paper plus the D/Sided tape?.
So if you get a crease, you can just Iron them flat again?.
John.
I mentioned it is just like the PopTart package. A mylar I believe. The corners I reinforce with sticky back dacron sail repair. My new sails by Black have the same corners. I have sails that are 5-10 years old but I have so many boats that I can’t sail them all a lot. One set the silver which is on a swing rig just turned to powder when I touched it the other day. I hadn’t used it for 6 months. It is about 10 years old and had many years of use. One of my most used sails. You have to be very careful with the material I use you touch it to put it that is it . It can not be removed so you must be extra careful to prevent wrinkles. If you use the dacron ( not nylon) spinnaker material 1/2 or 3/4 oz. you should be fine. I have a set that is 6 years old that has not come apart. It is on a Seawind but to maximum US-1M specs. 53.5 inch luff with full roach and foot. I have not tried the mylar that is now popular. I still have left over mylar wrapping paper. I gave a bunch of blue dacron to a fellow member who wanted to make his own sail but he went and bought Sterne sails and through it out. Why???
I wanted to post a picture of my latest set of sails.(#80) It was my first time to race with them in a 1 Meter Sport Regatta. Trispi 25 with taped seams. A little overwelmed at times as the wind exceeded 15mph, but very responsive.
Tom
Seawind #80
I remember seeing a post asking for sailmaking info, but I cannot seem to find it. Maybe it was less recent than I think.
This is an excellant presentation:
http://www.amya.org/club100/sailmkg1.htm
Scott
Hey Tom,
Those sails sure look pretty good from here. Nice job.
Hi there,
Tom nice set of sails you got there! My compliments. But I think you can get more out of your sail by cutting a small piece of the top part. (Let’s say from the second seam to the top).
In this way you will create a little more luff-round. In this way you can close your top a bit more. But I must warn you, because cutting of too much isn’t very good for the sailing properties. [:-banghead]
Folkert
P.S. I would recommend a trial version first because I don’t take any kind of responsibility for messing up your sails [:-indifferent]
Folkert,
It looks like a pretty windy day when Tom snapped that picture. He may have set his vang tension to add a bit of twist to help keep the boat under contrl in the breeze. The Seawind class does not allow “B” or “C” rigs (I believe) so your only option on windy days is to depower with twist.
Tom,
Have you tried using UK’s AccuMeasure yet to measure your sail shape? If you snap some pictures from above the mast head on a less windy day, you can measure your twist, draft, draft position, etc. This is a great way to see the effect of tuning changes as well as changes to the sail cut… I’ve found it to be a great tool for rig tuning development (along with a tension gauge and a ruler).
- Will
Will Gorgen
Will you are right. I was twisting off the top to help control heeling. The day was very windy by AZ standards 10 to 20 mph. What a blast. While reaching past the gybe mark the boat on a few occasions would power up and plane.
Folkert I have specificly added a little more material in the top third of the sail due to the light wind we typically have here. 5 to 10 is the norm. Thanks for the comments.
Tom
Seawind #80
… your twist looks just about perfect to me Tom. With the wind the way it looks, you seem to be doing OK with sail shape and you look to be powered up very nicely.
Thanks Greg,
Its nice to see you around again.[:-thumbu]
I sent Wis a set of sails as well. [:-taped]<font color=“red”>(Just so he would stop complaining about the kit sails)</font id=“red”>[:-taped] Perhaps he will post pic sometime once he has them dialed in. I may have to shut Cougar up in the near future…[:-eyebrows] since he is my latest SeaWind brother.
The sail making though not perfect is starting to show a few decent sets. I have made 6 sets so far.
This is a great thread that has a lot of links and information for anyone interested in sail making.
Tom
Seawind #80
Tom,
I was under the impression that the Seawind class rules did not allow anything but the kit sails. Or has this changed recently?
- Will
Will Gorgen
Will,
The SeaWind class rules presently do not allow after market sails for SCOA and AMYA events. However many clubs including ours here in Phoenix, feature a 1 Meter Sport Regatta that I sail in with my custom sails. Other Modifications are allowed as well. When the class was started there were many boats that were modifified beyond the point of rules compliance so the Sport Regatta was born. Many of those older boats are being replaced new ones so the numbers of compliant boats keeps growing. At the last Sport Regatta more than half the boats were completely stock. The next Local AMYA event is the Region 5 Championships scheduled for October.
Tom
Seawind #80