Nap, our boats are printed as one structure, with deck and canoe hull as an integral unit. I think it reduces warping and results in a more rigid hull.
Another tip: We found that the printer doesn’t like flat horizontal surfaces either. If you look at our pictures, you can see that things like the bulkhead of the mast well are sloped at about a 45 degree angle.
Sweet, thanks.
I actually stared at one of the pics on the printbed and saw that the angle was about 45… which dawned on me is the angle most printers can deal with… and then I changed mine in cad lol.
Emulation is the highest form of flattery after all 
Aluminum is a better heat conductor than cardboard causing more heat loss.
To avoid warping, ABS needs a “heated printer bed” and a temperature controlled area. Best works with closed case printers not the ones that are open all around.
On the other hand since it is a petroleum-based material (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and has a high melting point (210-250celcius) it produces toxic fumes so it must be used in a well ventilated area.
I read that some people work with PLA (Poly Lactic Acid) which I don’t think is a good idea since it’s sugar-based and biodegradable. It absorbs moisture and has a lower melting point than ABS thus making weaker bonds.
As for wall thickness you may try, instead of printing a solid wall, print a thin external surface with a thick mesh inside (honeycomb or rectilinear pattern). You could even get it to be lighter than with solids.
We will soon start tests for a Marblehead using carbon based filaments. The original Esterel idea was abandoned (sorry Claudio) I will keep you informed as soon as we have our first prints.
Hi Abi,
Esterel abandoned ! There will be another time for sure !!!
Cheers
ClaudioD
Thanks for the input.
I run my abs at 230 in a sealed enclosure, bed temp at 110C. To kill the smell you can chuck some activated carbon in the enclosure to absorb the smell or vent it outside via a tube.
The carbon filaments seem to be housed in either PLA or nylon based filaments. Selwyn is sticking to PLA as his choice and I’ve made some seriously strong bits for my new printer with Petg and Prusa’s cube infill. It’s awesome!!!
Have you had a chance to do trial runs on any filament? I’m almost done assembling the new printer and will then start doing some test runs on the rg65.
One of the materials to be tested is Ultimaker PC (polycarbonate) filament. I think is the same stuff many crash helmets are made from.
Unfortunately Nylon also absorbs moisture so it should be avoided.
Generally the better the material the harder it is to setup the printer correctly. It needs many test hours and meters of filament lost. But when you get it right…
Since November we have been printing non-stop with two SLA printers and a paper one, so we had no time to test our plastic one.
Now we will first upgrade it and make sure we place a hardened steel nozzle. We did a mistake in leaving our existing filaments exposed all this time, so we must make sure we get rid of any moisture absorbed. New filaments will be correctly stored from the beginning.
I’d be very interested to see the polycarbonate products.
How do you glue it?
This is one option:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm
Bill just caught up with this thread and have to ask the logical question regarding “Shrink” (or the clear) design…
How much cost are we looking at if one hull, keel, rudder and bulb. Thought of possibly giving it try up here and curious what costs am I looking at? I just started with templates for a 2 meter catamaran so not sure when I would proceed on another RG65, but still interested in costs either as a one-off prototype - or from an initial production run. Email please Formula48@comcast.net
Thanks, Dick
I have to say that walking past my printer and seeing a bow section being spat out is freaking awesome lol.
I’m officially obsessed and having a blast whilst doing it. I even printed the bow with an integrated rudder post at the correct angles etc. and it came out really well. Some issues to figure out, but it looks like I’ll be able to get a mid-ship section with the mast/keel trunk printed in a single hit. And as per Bill and Selwyn’s recomendations, PLA is looking like a hit. The PETG I tried was good but it has quit a bit more flex than the PLA… ABS is a headache I’m not even going to bother with.
Bill, have you looked into a multi-hull with a printer? I can imagine them becoming FAR more accesible for people with 3d printing.
Anyone keen on printing a hull, then printing a female form for a traditional lay-up and doing a drag race for giggles?
Andrew, we haven’t considered multi hulls at this point. Selwyn’s plate is pretty full. The RG65 is good for now, we have a refined Footy in the works, beta version of the IOM in process, new USOM on the printer now. We plan to do a 10R as our first foray into bigger boats, then if things go well we will do an A class hull. Much to be done and lots to be learned along the way.
Maybe you should give the multi-hull idea a whack?
Keep us posted on your progress…Bill
OK, still fiddling on the Pico but I have a hull, mast/fin trunk and rudder trunk.
All aligned etc.
I have to print the hull in multiple parts and had the centre section seperate in preperation for gluing in the mast trunk etc. This hull section fell on the floor (from a very high cupboard) and cracked in one spot. I’m impressed at the tiny crack that developed.
Major win for 3d printing… I hit print and had a replacement after about an hour 
Hull, mast/keel trunk and rudder stock weighing in at 96g at this point.
Are there any files available to print a hull ?
I am not a boat designer, but I have just gained unlimited acces to a room full of 3D printers
And would love to print an RG or footy hull.
Along with access to the printers except for my time, no cost to me.
Manny
I have some files made off Claudio’s design that I can give you, but none are tested etc.
If you go on Thingiverse and search for NANO you can find a file that has been built and works
Thankx …
I’m downloading the files now … I will have to start looking for a “bigger” printer than the one I have here … couple of options in the engineering labs.
Quick question though: how did you make the bulb?
I have successfully printed a male plug and making a plaster mould and pouring lead.
The files the Bdill made on that link are filled with leadshot I think. From what I’ve seen using cad that will give me an extremely large bulb so I’m sticking to good old lead pouring personally.
My printer only gets to 170mm height so dont stress about that.